Hello, I have a problem changing the radio frequency on Polestar 2 channel 360. The step changed to 0.1 Mhz and new stations appeared, but it doesn't play them, it plays the last one I listened to before the change and no matter which one I choose, it stays on the same frequency.
Has anyone swapped out the high voltage battery in a Polelstar 2 or XC40/C40?
The Polestar 82kWh battery has been removed and replaced with a 78kWh HV battery from an XC40 though the car is not talking to the battery - which is a problem.
Is there a way to recode or reset wither wndf so they can talk? They are both 2023 models and the XC40 is still available.
I am happy to do some debugging or code collections.
I am retrofitting front parking sensors on my Volvo V60 2021 (Model Year 2022) Mild Hybrid B4 Diesel (SPA platform). I have already built my own DIY bumper harness, bought the OEM sensors (4 sensors), and have Orbit ready for activation. The car has Active Grille Shutters (AGS) but NO front fog lights and NO front camera.
I am completely confused about the main connector located under the front fender, and I suspect a local mechanic might be mistaken because he hasn't worked on these newer SPA Volvos before. He told me that the connector side with FEWER wires goes to the cabin module, and the side with MORE wires comes from the bumper. This sounds completely backwards to me and doesn't make sense.
Here is the actual situation on my car (attaching photos): On the chassis-side connector, the top row is completely blocked with white dummy plugs, and there are absolutely no wires entering it from behind. Only the bottom row has wires, which are running the Active Grille Shutters.
Since the mechanic got me confused, I want to ask those who have actually done this retrofit: what is the correct way to handle this? Since the chassis side is missing the wires for the park assist does it mean I have to manually pin them into the CEM/ASDM module in the cabin and run them through the firewall down to this fender connector?
For those who have done this DIY: how difficult is it to physically route these wires from the cabin out to the fender connector? Is there an easily accessible rubber grommet in the firewall, or does it require a lot of disassembly inside the cabin?
Could anyone please share the official Volvo Wiring Diagram (WDM) or the exact pinout for the CEM/ASDM for this model year? I really want to finish this retrofit properly but need to know exactly where to run the missing wires from the cabin.
Hello. I added adaptive cruise control to my 2019 Volvo V60 D3. Everything works, and there are no error messages on the dashboard. However, the control module reports a configuration error.
Is this normal because the system was added unofficially and the car detects that? Or do I need a different configuration level? At the moment, I have Level 2 without lane markings.
Hey,
So I randomly bought a Polestar 2 because I got tired of filling the car and wanted something new to play with, and as someone who's not a fan of the HK audio in any Volvo.
Naturally, the immediate question is: Can we retrofit the B&W system into our older P2s?
I’ve spent more time than I should week digging into parts lists, wiring diagrams, and European forum threads to see if this is a realistic weekend DIY project, or if we're fighting a losing battle? Thing is I never lose
What Can We Cross-Source?
Many of the drivers in this setup are heavily shared with Volvo's larger SPA-platform vehicles (XC90, V90, V60, XC60), but there are some critical quirks and differences you need to know:
Tweeter-on-Top & Midrange and Base Speaker (Dashboard): These physical assemblies are connected to each other. This is a completely brand-new product design necessitated by the Polestar 2's unique, shallow dashboard geometry.
Midrange Door Speakers (32350712): These are physically identical to the 80mm B&W door midranges found in the XC90, V60, and XC60 (2021+ models). The only modification needed is the addition of some foam weather stripping to ensure a perfect seal against the P2's door cards.
A-Pillar Tweeters (32350711): Physically the same dome units used in the XC90. Crucial Note: These are 4-ohm drivers, whereas the older stock HK tweeters run at 12 ohms. If you run these on the stock HK amp, you risk burning out the channels or severely clipping the signal. You absolutely need the B&W amp to run these safely.
Rear Door Woofers (31489043) & Rear Shelf Surrounds (31438338): Good news here—these are completely identical to the stock HK parts already installed in older Polestar 2s. No need to swap them out.
Rear Door Tweeter (32200034): Identical to those found in the XC90, V90, and other modern SPA Volvos. Easy to find on the salvage market. Same as the A piller ones 4ohm and needs BW Amp
The Subwoofer (32350738): This is technically a new part number for the P2, but it uses the exact same 250mm (10-inch) "Fresh Air" structural design as the Volvo SPA subs.
The physical swap is relatively straightforward, but the brain of the system is where the real work lies:
The Amp: The hardware itself is shared with the V60/XC60 B&W system.
The Software Catch: It requires totally different AUD (Audio Module) firmware/software to map the channels, DSP, and EQ curves specifically to the Polestar 2 cabin.
I’m currently digging into how we can flash the correct calibrationonto a salvaged BW amp. If someone has more insights into this feel free to correct me. I have ZERO knowledge about AUD and the BW amps
I've recently been trying to connect to my Polestar 2 to clear some error messages I caused, but I can't get Orbit to connect anymore. Worth pointing out that I have previously connected and installed modules using this exact combination of laptop/ethernet/cable. I have even tried rolling back to a known working version of Orbit, but I keep getting the same error:
"A car is found but it is not responding to connection request"
I've tried deep sleep on the car, pulling the TCAM battery + 12v, adding a firewall exception, completely disabling the Windows firewall, using an old 'known-working' version of Orbit, using the latest version of Orbit...
Hello everyone,
I wanted to ask whether it is possible to apply configuration changes through the wizards without clearing or resetting the DTCs.
I currently have an intermittent “Reduced engine performance” issue that needs to be diagnosed by the dealer.
When I read the codes myself, I found P200900 confirmed and P00BC00 stored.
The car also consumes quite a lot of oil, so I suspect the issue may be related to the EGR valve.
Recently, I disabled the ACC that I had previously enabled through Orbit, but doing so cleared the DTCs. Since then, the reduced engine performance warning has not appeared again.
It would be very useful if I could disable and re-enable features until my dealer appointment, which is in about a month, without losing any diagnostic data. I travel a lot, so I would really like to keep using ACC in the meantime if possible.
Is there any way to apply wizard changes without clearing the stored/confirmed DTCs?
Does the coolant need changing? Hello. I've searched online and nowhere does it say it needs to be changed frequently. (km, etc.) Does anyone have any information on this? I have 180,000 km and I'm still using the original coolant.
![[Image: HU8BLGY.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/HU8BLGY.jpeg)
