HP to HK Sound: Door Wires

[Pliind]

You need to give more details 
What are the exact DTC codes, 
The original AUD type of your V60 2020 and what is the donor car model / year from which you got the HK AUD?

Sorry i had saved it but it was "offline" in my orbit-laptop.

I had High Performance as stock, orbit is now set to high performance plus. (and all new speakers are HK)

AUD:
B11006 - Speaker #6- General Electrical Failures- Circuit open
B11008 - Speaker #8- General Electrical Failures- Circuit open
B11009 - **No description found in ECU database**
B11010 - **No description found in ECU database**
B11011 - **No description found in ECU database**

I know it came from a V60, ill try to see if the seller knows the year.

[IMAY2023]

High performance has two variants W or WO SUB and both variants do not have center speaker and D-Pillar speakers (R & L) 
So, I am assuming you have installed and wired the center speaker and the two D-Pillar speakers. 
Now, it is important to know the production year of the donor V60. You can also look at the AUD itself. There should be a production date. 

From MY23+ AUD (HK and B&W)  the tweeter on the rear doors has it's own channel from AUD, similar to front doors (MID +High) but on up to MY22 the tweeter and woofer are in parallel using the same output channel.  So, most likely that is the reason. You 'll probably need to pull second channel to each rear door. But before doing, grab two tweeters and connect them to AUD on the following pins.  You should hear sound from the tweeters and the DTCs B11006 and B11008 should be cleared. 
D20 (pos) right
D8 (neg) right  

D18 (pos) left
D6 (neg) left

The other three DTCs could be related to added center, D-pillar speakers.  Try to swap the polarity.

[Pliind]

High performance has two variants W or WO SUB and both variants do not have center speaker and D-Pillar speakers (R & L) 
So, I am assuming you have installed and wired the center speaker and the two D-Pillar speakers. 
Now, it is important to know the production year of the donor V60. You can also look at the AUD itself. There should be a production date. 

From MY23+ AUD (HK and B&W)  the tweeter on the rear doors has it's own channel from AUD, similar to front doors (MID +High) but on up to MY22 the tweeter and woofer are in parallel using the same output channel.  So, most likely that is the reason. You 'll probably need to pull second channel to each rear door. But before doing, grab two tweeters and connect them to AUD on the following pins.  You should hear sound from the tweeters and the DTCs B11006 and B11008 should be cleared. 
D20 (pos) right
D8 (neg) right  

D18 (pos) left
D6 (neg) left

The other three DTCs could be related to added center, D-pillar speakers.  Try to swap the polarity.

Thanks for your answer! i have from the start thought that the backdoors where very quiet on the tweeter side and it could be related to this, guess i have a weekend project curveballing me   just hope i have enough terminals if it comes to me pinning more stuff in my doors. To keep stuff kinda OEM, do you know the official pins numbers in the door / pillar?

[IMAY2023]

For the rear doors:
I bought this  and used the 4 wires from the door to car connector with their pins.  Not the big ones, the smaller ones. Then added them to the harness on the car. Using the 2 middle free ones on each door.  The other side goes to the woofer connector. (i drilled a small whole right under the wire path.) You will see that woofer connector has 4 wires connected. (2 sets) 
1 set is coming from the door connector from AUD, the other goes to the grey connector for the door trim harness for the tweeter. 
So, you will need to cut the pair that goes to the grey connector and wire the two wires to them you just added. 

The next step is from the AUD to the door connector. 
This terminal is for the AUD pins. 
I could not find the female pin part number for the door black connector. (the car side of the door harness that I bought) So, I trimmed 50mm the edge of the wire the push the naked part all the way into the whole for the female pin. (car side). 
When you connect back the door connector (with the new male pins) it touches to the naked wire and that's it. Since the connector is locked in place and it's just very low voltage without any amperage there is no problem. You just need to secure the new wires with zip ties so they wouldn't push back.

[Pliind]

I actually had all terminals already from my keyless project so everything is now mounted and done! Sound is much better!

[spacemanspiff]

I actually had all terminals already from my keyless project so everything is now mounted and done! Sound is much better!

So you have the part numbers for the door / pillar connection?

[Pliind]

I actually had all terminals already from my keyless project so everything is now mounted and done! Sound is much better!

So you have the part numbers for the door / pillar connection?

Sorry i don't  i bought 4x harnesses and a couple of pillar connectors from the junkyard so i could extract the needed pins. My old harnesses gave me the extra pins for the doors i needed.

[spacemanspiff]

I actually had all terminals already from my keyless project so everything is now mounted and done! Sound is much better!

So you have the part numbers for the door / pillar connection?

Sorry i don't  i bought 4x harnesses and a couple of pillar connectors from the junkyard so i could extract the needed pins. My old harnesses gave me the extra pins for the doors i needed.

No problem! I routed the wires today, and did the bare wires inserted from the car side as recommended by IMAY2023. I don't have the door side receptacles yet, so I can't tell if it worked. But I'm hopeful. Getting to the front door harness connector from inside the car body is awful by the way.

[Pliind]

Very interesting… i checked codes now and 6,8 and 9 are still active…so the two i got rid of was the rear tweeters…