OrBit Forums - OrBit How-To Guides

How to install Orbit on ARM MacOS (open-source method)

Sun, 29 Mar 2026 20:56:56 +0000

I saw a couple of threads on here about running Orbit on ARM, specifically MacOS Silicon devices (M1 - M5, etc). Most suggest using thing like:

Parallels (costs money/free trial is an annoyance)
VMWare (absolute tumour of a company... Boradcom lol, bloatware and just general poor experience)
VirtualBox (Oracle poop)

I have found the best approach has been using UTM. UTM is an open source project, available via homebrew and seems to run with very little overhead. I have had comparable performance running it this way compared to natively.

I've put together a step-by-step guide for those of you who want to give this a go. I have been using it for a few days now with out any issues. Although I'm sure a caveat is required that this is to be done at your own risk as it is not 'officially' support, AFAIK.

Get started with homebrew (a package manager for MacOS, which allows you to install software from the terminal).

Homebrew Install:

Code:
/bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh)"

Software Install:

Code:
brew install crystalfetch
Code:
brew install utm

Download Windows 11 ISO:

Open CrystalFetch
Adjust based on your region (ensure select Apple Silicon and latest)

Configure VM in UTM:

Open UTM and click the “+” button to open the VM creation wizard.
Select “Virtualize”.
Select “Windows”.
Pick the amount of RAM and CPU cores you wish to give access to the VM. Press “Continue”.
1. I suggest at least 8GB RAM & 4 Cores - the more the better, ensure your host has enough overhead to function normally.
Make “Install Windows 10 or higher” is checked. Also make sure “Install drivers and SPICE tools” is checked. Press “Browse” and select the ISO you built in step 1.
Specify the maximum amount of drive space to allocate. Press “Continue”.
1. I suggest 64GB to be safe, this allows rooms for the Windows OS. While its probably overkill; its better to have too much than too little.
If you have a directory you want to mount in the VM, you can select it here. Alternatively, you can skip this and select the directory later from the VM window’s toolbar. The shared directory will be available after installing SPICE tools (see below). Press “Continue”.
1. Useful if you have files on your host (Mac) that you'd like to access on the VM
Press “Save” to create the VM. Wait for the guest tools to finish downloading and press the Run button to start the VM.
Press any key to start the Windows installer and follow the instructions on screen. If you have issues with the mouse, press the mouse capture button in the toolbar to send mouse input directly. Press Control+Option together to exit mouse capture mode. Sometimes, due to driver issues, you can enter and exit capture mode and the mouse cursor works normally again.

Activate Windows:

I of course do not promote or encourage piracy, buy a key if you want although its not needed or required to run Orbit
1. Select 'I don't have a key' when installing
You could hypothetically google 'github MAS' and see what you find...

Install Orbit:

Download the latest version from here: https://app.spaycetech.com/orbitupdate/download
Install, following the wizard. The standard release can be ran on ARM Windows 11 (Windows performs some runtime emulation)

Congrats! You now have Orbit running on your shiny Macbook!

You'll want to buy a thunderbolt (UBS-C) to ethernet adapter. I recommend buying one from a rebutable brand as poor quality one's can be flaky. Sabrent, Belkin and StarTech are usally of high build quality. Avoid the chinesium.

How to program a key fob with OrBit and troubleshoot errors

Tue, 03 Sep 2024 18:42:24 +0000

This is a guide to programming key fobs to the car, and troubleshooting problems when you try to do it. Assuming you have the correct Security PIN saved (there will be a separate FAQ about that). If you are looking for guidance on what key fobs to use, can you program used key fobs etc. read this guide.

Programming key fobs to the car is a simple matter. However there are a number of reasons the process can fail. Many of them are known issues that I have found, have been reported by others, or documented by Volvo. This guide should help you through programming key fobs, and if it is not successful, figuring out an issue and resolving it.

First the basics. OrBit guides you through programming keys with some instructions in the dialog so some of this is redundant:

To program key fobs, click the button "Program Keys" in the Service tab in OrBit. If you have a "Security PIN" saved in the profile for the car, the Key program dialog opens. (If you don't have the needed PIN saved, OrBit will prompt you with the specific options you have for your car, but that's a subject for a different FAQ)

You have two options when programming key fobs: Erase all keys or Add a key. There are no other options. You must achieve your goals with those two options. For example to "remove a key" fob from the car, you need to Erase all keys, then use Add a key to program each remaining key fob to the car.

The key fob programming process is:

Place the key fob in the programming location. - For all cars, the location is near the "backup" key location where you can place the fob to start the car with a key fob when it's battery is dead. The location is near the interior key antenna. To pair the key, the fob needs to be as close as possible to this antenna. On the SPA cars, this location is the front console cupholder location. For programming, the Volvo guidance is to place the key fob "standing up" against the left side of the cupholder (right side for RHD car), held by the "fingers" of the cupholder. For CMA cars (X/C40, Polestar 2) this location is toward the back of the console. A couple pics for guidance here are below. You should not have ANY other keys within range of the car when programming a key fob. Some cars are more sensitive than others, my own experience is that sometimes I needed to remove all other key fobs from anywhere inside my garage to successfully program a key fob to the car.

For SPA, key fob in proper location on my LHD S60:

  KeyFobProgram.jpg (Size: 84.11 KB / Downloads: 396)

For CMA, diagram of the backup key spot (if someone has a better picture if the best placement, please send to me to post!):

  CMA-BackupKeySpot.JPG (Size: 22.67 KB / Downloads: 385)

Click "Add a key" in the dialog in OrBit. - The car will try to pair the key and return the result. A successful programming will return "Key program successful" status in the dialog. You may see an indication of the "slot" as well if the car returns the information. For example "Key program successful, slot 2" indicates the key fob is paired and is currently the 2nd key fob programmed to the car. If you have problems, keep reading for common problems below, how to troubleshoot and solve them.

Example Key Programming dialog with return status:

  OrBitKeyDialogReturn.JPG (Size: 29.22 KB / Downloads: 390)

NOTE: A special tip from me to you on Erasing All Keys - It's always a little scary to "Erase all keys" before you know key programming is going to work! Here is what I recommend, to put yourself at ease BEFORE you erase all keys from the car: Try to add a key fob first, if you have a new one, see that it works, successfully. Then you know you have done everything right, the fob is good, it should work fine after erasing all keys. If you DON'T have a new fob to program, no problem! Try to program one of the existing keys you have for the car. If you get the error return "Key Already Programmed" you know key programming worked! The key fob was just already programmed to the car. If you get ANY other error, troubleshoot that FIRST before erasing all the keys, so you can solve the problems while still being able to operate the car with an existing key fob.)

FAQs

What if you get an error programming a key? - First, know that most errors come from the car! OrBit is not involved in the process of pairing the key fob, it simply requests to the car to detect and pair the key fob that is placed in the proper location in the car, and then OrBit waits for the result from the car to be returned, and decodes the success or the error reason. Any issues with the process, are between the key fob and the car. This will help you to look for problems in the right place when trying to solve key programming issues. Any status other than "Error", is a return status from the car trying to program the key fob. If you do get an "Error" status when programming a key fob, in most cases, reach out to support for these. For all other error messages, read below and see what you can do for each specific error.

"Key not detected" - This is far and away the most common error. The car was unable to pair the key. It seems specific but it really is a general error with the radio exchange between the car antenna and the key fob that is necessary to pair it successfully. There are many possible causes for the issue, we may not know them all even. But I will list the common and known things to check and possibly resolve. You may try the easy things first and work your way down to the more difficult things until you solve the problem:

Mystery interference: This may be obvious...just try again if you get this error. You may find the key will program on a subsequent try.
Key fob battery: A weak battery may cause the programming to fail. Always put a fresh high quality battery in use key fobs. (I use Toshiba brand). For sport key/key tag type fob: unless the key fob is purchased new from Volvo, you will always have to suspect the battery is weak, as it is is not replaceable officially (but some have done it successfully)
Other keys too close: Remove ALL other key fobs in the area. Take them far away, far enough there can be NO doubt another key fob is in contact with the car.
Correct the fob placement: Be sure the key fob is as close to the antenna as possible. Follow the guidance on programming placement. The position matters. Maybe sometimes you can program a key tossed in the cupholder. You will find other times, the fob MUST be in the specific programming position! One user has even reported to me, he needed to remove the external shell from the fob to eliminate this error and pair the fob successfully. It's worth a try, anything you can do to make the "connection" between the antenna and the fob better can only help.
Verify the key is not bad: Try another key fob. Another "trick" to check that programming works with a "known good" key fob to diagnose a "bad" one, is to try to program one of your existing key fobs. If the key is detected successfully, you will get the "Key already programmed" return error. I've never used the aftermarket new key fobs, but I have heard it's frequent to get a bad one. You'll need to be able to verify the fob is good, if you want to use aftermarket fobs and find you have a problem. Personally I only use new or used OEM key fobs. Even then, you can get a "bad" one, and there are certain older OEM fobs that are known to be defective (See HERE for Volvo TJ about it, to ID the defective fob).
Interference from the SRS module (T8 only): There is a known issue programming key fobs on the T8 models, due to interference from the SRS module that is under the console. (See HERE for Volvo TJ about it and the solutions depending on the model/year)
Antenna under the console has shifted out of place: The interior key antenna may have shifted out of place or the mount may have broken. If the antenna is not in the expected location, key programming may not work as the correct fob placement is no longer close enough to the antenna, while normal functions that don't depend on exact location of the interior key antenna, like starting and operating the car, continue to work normally. You will need to physcially inspect this if you have come this far and still cannot program key fobs.
Other issues: If nothing solves errors detecting the key when programming, there could be hardware or software issues in the car. This is out of the scope of this guide. You probably have other issues with the keyless system at this point, that should be addressed and resolved, before trying to program keys while other malfunctions exist.

"Program Error" - This error is more general than the key detection error. It can be problems not related to wireless communications, it could be inside the CEM, hardware issues etc. It is very generic. In this case I would try again to program the key, and then follow steps for the key detection error, at least as far as confirming that you can try to program a "known good" or existing key, to rule out that the program error is because you are trying to pair a bad key fob.

"Key Already Programmed" - This error is already discussed, and self explanatory. If the key fob you are trying to pair is already programmed to the car, BUT the process was otherwise succesful, you will get this error return. Again it is useful as you know the programming process "worked" when you get this error, so it can be useful for troubleshooting.

"Too Many Keys" - This is also self explanatory. You can have up to 12 key fobs programmed to the car, that is a lot! It's possible if keys have never been erased from the car, but new keys added many times to replace old lost key fobs, you could hit the limit of programmed keys while not actually having 12 key fobs. If you do get this error, you will probably need to erase all keys to clear out the old fobs, and then start fresh and add each key fob you have, back to the car.

"Timeout checking result" - The CEM did not respond in a reasonable time to the request to pair the key fob. Try again. If you see a consistent issue, contact support and we will look at the issue together.

"Unknown Error" - The CEM did not respond with a known error code. Try again. If you see a consistent issue, contact support and we will look at the issue together.

"Error" - This is the ONLY error that is an application error from OrBit. In this case, it could be an OrBit issue, currently you will see this if the Security PIN is incorrect (this will be split out as a specific error in the future). Most cases, you may want to try again, to be sure you have a consistent error, then contact support to look at the specific situation for your case, it is not likely this is the same problem someone else has had.

How to buy used key fobs - SPA/CMA key fob and config guide

Sat, 09 Dec 2023 04:56:40 +0000

With the release of key programming in OrBit, I thought it would be good to share everything I have learned in developing and testing with the different types of fobs. I'll start with some notes about keys.

You can program any compatible key fob to the car, new or used. There is no key "virginizing" needed with the Volvo key fobs.
There are variations in key fob frequency: 434MHz, 315MHz and 434MHz "narrow band"(for S. Korea). Check Item 092 in OrBit when connected to your car to see which you have.
I am focusing on the 434MHz keys used in North America, but there is enough similarty this should still be helpful for those in markets with different remote frequency.
I'll talk about the key variations, but not part numbers, there are far too many to track them all, and I was more interested in using recycled keys.
These cars can have 2 variations of key equipment, "keyless starting" or "keyless locking and unlocking (Passive Entry)". They use the same key fobs, and same programming process.

  VolvoKeys.jpg (Size: 453.65 KB / Downloads: 697)

Key varitations - Motion Sensing (MS)

Starting in 2021, Volvo updated key fobs with new cars to "Motion Sensing" style. The sole purpose of the motion sensing key is to be resistant to "relay attack" theft that proximity key fob systems are vulnerable to. The key shuts off, it won't respond to the car, when left sitting still for some length of time, via a motion sensor integrated in the fob. Volvo offers an accessory for pre-2021 cars to upgrade the keys to the "MS" type. The kit is an entire set of replacement key fobs for the car.

You can identify these keys by the mfr (Huf) model number HUF8423 is the non-MS, while the MS key is approproately the HUF8423MS. You can also use the FCCID that is popular for used keys to be advertised and sold by: YGOHUF8423 / YGOHUF8423MS. The various part and regulatory numbers are printed in the area inside the key, under where the key blade sits. On the sport key tag the printing is on the back of the case, the models of sport key tag are HUF8432/HUF8432MS, FCCID YGOHUF8432/YGOHUF8432MS. (note these are the 434Mhz specific parts)

You can use and program these keys interchangably. The motion sensing feature is entirely contained within the key fob.

  FCCIDFob1.jpg (Size: 99.61 KB / Downloads: 688)

  FCCIDFob2.jpg (Size: 142.03 KB / Downloads: 650)

Key variations - Styles and shells

There are various different looking styles of keys. Volvo looks to have "cheapened" the keys over the years. My 2019 S60 came new with 2 leather shell key fobs matching the interior color, plus the buttonless waterproof sport key tag. I understand new Volvos today come with 2 plastic shell key fobs. Volvo has also offered some accessory replacement key shells in various colors and finishes like woodgrain.

All shells appear to be compatible with all fobs, you can mix and match them as you like. I upgraded my car with used "MS" keys with the cheap plastic shell, I simply swapped my original leather shells to the replacement key fobs. I also picked up a sweet unused amber leather shell from EBay at a great price, so now my wife knows which fob is hers, and there won't be any doubt as to "who" lost their key fob that was missing for 9 months around the house!! (It was somewhere under the seat of her Mazda)

One note is some of the plastic shell keys have black buttons. Swapping a shell from a "silver button" key will give the key a different look, but of course the function won't be affected.

  LeatherVsPlastic.jpg (Size: 436.08 KB / Downloads: 682)

There is not too much to know about the sport key tag, the battery is not technically replacable, but it can be done. So buying those used it up to you. I could never get the case apart so it goes back together well. I bought a new MS key tag to upgrade. Then I noticed the ket tag I had replaced under warranty, was already the MS type! So I got 2 good MS key tags in my collection now.

Key variations - Restricted Key and Care Key

Volvo has offered 2 "special" key types:
Restricted Key (Red Key): This key allows using the car with various restrictions. Speed limited, stereo volume limited, not able to turn off some safety features
Care Key (Orange Key): This key allows using the car with a maximum speed limit. If a maximum speed limit is not set, it is essentially a normal key

  SpecialKeys.jpg (Size: 408.38 KB / Downloads: 641)

Restricted or care key are controlled by car config. For normal Volvo owners this is set at the factory, although Volvo does have a service software the dealer can order to disable restricted key function on a car, at the owners request. Of course we here have OrBit, so we can control the special key function through item 214 "RESTRICTED KEY FUNCTION". You may have questions about the behavior of these special keys as you program them to your own car. I will give a few notes and examples to make it clear. i don't know that all cars support both Restricted Key and Care Key, so the below is subject to what your model/year supports. (Note my 2019 does not support Care Key setting, so I have done my best to work this out, feel free to add any corrections in a reply!).

If item 214 is set to "01 Without restricted key":
Any red key or orange key programmed to the car works as a normal key

If item 214 is set to "02 Restricted Key":
Any red key or orange key operates as a Restricted Key

If item 214 is set to "03 Restricted key - Care Key":
Any red key or orange key operates as a Care Key

It does not matter when you program the key fob to the car, you can change config any time and the operation of the special keys will follow the above. this also means you cannot program multiple "special" keys to the car and have them behave differently, all special keys will follow the config setting of item 214.

A small note...if you swap shells around with your keys, do not worry about losing track of the special keys. The shell release slider on the fob matches the color of the original shell, orange or red, so you can identify the special keys without the shell.

Also there are definitely MS and non-MS versions of Red Keys, I think the newer Care Keys are all MS version.

For Polestar peeps: All the above applies. I don't know that Polestar cars ever used the special keys. You can mix and match with the Volvo keys, the model and FCCID is the same, just with that bulkier Polestar shell ;-)

How to troubleshoot gateway/connection fail when flashing config or software

Tue, 26 Sep 2023 19:36:07 +0000

**updated Feb 2025**
When you write config to the car, or otherwise flash a module with software using OrBit, it may fail and you will see some errors in the screen console. But some issues depend on the computer or other things outside of what OrBit can control. Here are some typical errors and fixes for troubleshooting:

(Note: I want to clarify since it seems people mention this often when flash fails, "it doesn't work when I change XX setting"...it doesn't matter which config settings you are changing. That has no effect on the flashing process, whether it is successful or fails. The programming process does not care what the contents of the data are, it either works or it doesn't)

If Write Config, Restore to OEM or other software flash fails and you see any of the following messages in the screen log in OrBit:

Error reconnecting to the gateway after programming mode request
Gateway network not returned in time, update network card drivers and turn off power save settings?
Gateway (VCM/TCAM) did not return in time from prog mode boot request!

Follow the below steps to address some known issues that can cause this problem

For Sensus cars, try resetting the VCM gateway with OrBit:

In OrBit, connect to the car
Switch to the ECU Tools tab
Change the Active ECU dropdown to VCM
Click the "Reset ECU" button

ResetGateway.JPG (Size: 49.86 KB / Downloads: 278)

There is no harm in resetting an ECU, it is equivalent to rebooting your PC
Wait for OrBit to reconnect after resetting the gateway ECU
Try write config/flash again and see if it succeeds

For AAOS cars, try resetting the TCAM gateway in the car:

In the car, push the front defogger button on the climate control, hold for 10-20 secs until the "SOS" button in the overhead console flashes
Release the front defogger button
Wait a few minutes, try to connect to the car with OrBit
Try write config/flash again and see if it succeeds
If the "SOS" button does not flash when trying the TCAM reset, the TCAM is not responding, move on to the battery reset

...If restarting the gateway does not resolve the problem, perform a battery reset:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the 12V battery
Wait a minute
Reconnect the negative battery terminal
Try write config/flash again and see if it succeeds

...If the battery reset does not resolve the problem, look at the local computer for possible issue, first rule out a firewall issue:

Disable the Windows Defender Firewall temporarily
Try write config/flash again and see if it succeeds
If you have a 3rd party AV program with firewall function, you will need to check vendor specific information to temporarily disable the firewall function

FirewallDisable.JPG (Size: 43.57 KB / Downloads: 175)

...If the firewall disable does not solve the problem, check network card driver power settings in Windows:

Open "Device Manager" in Windows
Expand the "Network adapters" node
Find the wired adapter, this should have "ethernet" in the name (example below)
Right click the adpater and choose "Properties"

EthernetPower.JPG (Size: 102.76 KB / Downloads: 276)

Switch to the Power Management tab (if present)
Uncheck the box to allow the computer to turn the device off

NetworkPowerMgmt.JPG (Size: 26.17 KB / Downloads: 175)

Switch to the Advanced tab
In the advanced tab there is a list of "features" on the left and the "setting value" dropdown on the right
Look through the list of features and find the "power saving" type settings, and disable them, these can be a cause of problems for automotive diagnostics. Below is a list of the known settings that could be a problem. Disable these features if present:

Energy Efficient Ethernet
Link Speed Battery Saver
System Idle Power Saver
Ultra Low Power Mode
Selective Suspend
Force Suspend
Green Ethernet
Suspend AutoDetach

When done, click "OK" and close Device Manager.
Disconnect OrBit if it is connected
Remove and re-plug the OBD end of the VOE adapter to the car
Connect to the car in OrBit
Try write config/flash again and see if it succeeds

...If flashing still fails, other things you can try:

reboot the computer
check for network card driver updates in Windows optional updates (or specific to the computer vendor or network card manufacturer)

DriverUpdates.JPG (Size: 33.84 KB / Downloads: 176)

Uninstall and reinstall OrBit
If you have another compatible computer avaialble, try installing OrBit and write a config

...If all else has failed to resolve the issue, you will probably want to contact support-at-spaycetech.com by email and we will take a closer look at your specific issue.

How to work with headlamps and HCMs in OrBit (flashing, config, used HCM install)

Fri, 07 Jul 2023 20:54:57 +0000

OrBit can flash software to HCM (Headlamp control module) in the car. These modules are "coded" to the "side" left or right, and become the HCML and HCMR. OrBit can also write the "config string" to the HCM. This ability allows you to code the HCM for a headlamp replacement, support swapping headlamp types, and installing used HCMs removed from a headlamp, where you don't know which "side" the HCM is programmed for (HCML or HCMR?) OrBit can switch the HCM from HCML to HCMR and the other way, so you can install a used module to any headlamp.

How to work with HCMs in OrBit:

There are some special processes for flashing HCM modules (HCML and HCMR) these include: Writing config string to: learn new headlamp units, and to convert a used HCM 'side', to change a used HCML to HCMR and vice versa. This guide assumes you have already reviewed the general software flashing guide, or otherwise already familiar with flashing software to a module with OrBit. Review that guide first if you need to.

How to flash used HCM modules and write headlamp config string:

When flashing software to an HCM (see flashing with OrBit guide), OrBit will prompt you to write the config string. You do not need to write the config string each time you flash, you can bypass it when prompted if not needed, config string write only needs to be done once when a new headlamp unit or HCM is fitted.
The config string contains headlamp production info and also sets the "side" of the HCM module. Writing the config string allows you to change the side, converting the HCML to HCMR or vice versa.
To write the config string, you need to read the information from the label on the headlamp unit. The config string dialog in OrBit contains instructions to enter the information from the headlight.

HeadlampSticker.jpg (Size: 955.28 KB / Downloads: 991)

Notes for changing "side" of used HCM (HCML to HCMR or HCMR to HCML):

When the HCM is installed on to the headlamp, and plugged into the car, it will respond to diagnostics as HCML or HCMR according to how it was programmed last (from the car it was removed from).
It is helpful to work on only one headlamp at a time via OrBit when installing headlamps with unknown used HCM modules. You can achieve this by only plugging in a single headlamp. When working on one headlamp, unplug the other one from the car harness. If the car is already assembled, you can pull the fuses for the opposite side headlamp to disable the HCM on that side.
When you have checked and or corrected the "side" of one HCM, unplug it (or pull fuses) and plug in the other side to check and correct that module. You want to avoid trying to flash the used HCM and write the config string with duplicate HCMs in the car (2 HCMR or 2 HCML). Work on only one headlamp at a time until both sides are correct.
To check the newly installed used HCM, with the "other side" headlamp unplugged, connect OrBit to the car, and determine if the used HCM responds to HCML or HCMR.
There are multiple ways do find which "side' the HCM is responding as, the easiest is to attempt to read any Data by ID (DID) from the HCML and HCMR in turn. You should get a response from only one of the modules, the other will return an error that OrBit is unable to read from the module. Now you will know which side the used HCM is programmed to.
If the side is correct, for example the Left side is responding as HCML, you can proceed to flashing software to the module and write the config string.
Use the "skip programming checks" checkbox on the "Experts Toolbox" tab when performing this process, to prevent OrBit flash fail due to HCML or HCMR "not responding".
If the side needs to be corrected, example the Left side is responding as HCMR in the car, you will need to flash a software for the current module side, in order to change the config string and switch the side. For this example, left side is HCMR, in the ECU Flash box, choose the SBL for HCMR and choose any software for the HCMR to flash (it doesn't matter which one). Then proceed to flash and choose to write the config string, using the config info from the headlamp sticker. After flashing with the new config string, the HCM will now respond as the "correct" side, HCML or HCMR. You can then proceed to flash all correct software to the HCM.
When one side is correct and complete, unplug that headlamp from the car harness, and plug the other side headlamp in.
Repeat the above process to check the "side" the used HCM is responding as, and write the config string. Then proceed to load the correct software to the HCM.
When both used HCMs have been checked and corrected: you have one HCML and one HCMR in the car, both headlights can be plugged in and reassemble the car.

How to flash a module with software in OrBit

Fri, 07 Jul 2023 20:36:03 +0000

How to flash software with OrBit:
You can flash software to some ECUs/modules in your SPA/CMA Volvo/Polestar car with OrBit. This is a relatively lesser used and somewhat limited feature of OrBit. This is partly that most of y'all users don't care yet ;-) But also due to how Volvo works: rather than making module software readily available like some mfrs, they go out of their way to keep it locked up and safe, only accessible through their watchful eyes via VIDA ;-) But still, OrBit can do it and who knows what the future holds. Current ECUs "enabled" for flashing are: CEM, HCML, HCMR, SCL, VCM, SRS, DEM, AUD, SODL, SODR, TRM, POT, EGSM, OBC, PSCM, HUD, SWM, SAS, PSMP, PSMD, WAM.

More ECUs are enabled as I test them and confirm flashing works reliably, or in some cases I have worked with others.. Don't ask about ECM or IHU yet, these are the most complex and secured flashing processes, and currently we don't have anything of interest to flash to them anyways, not yet...

The biggest hurdle you have is knowing what software you need and getting the software "VBF" files in the first place. This is no a guide for that, it is a guide with how to flash a module with software with OrBit if you have it. You can ask around though, you do never know who has what software files in their collection.

How to flash software to a module with OrBit:

If you are already familiar with flashing software to ECUs, some of this may be review. To flash software, you need both the SBL to boot the ECU into flashing mode, and you need the software file to flash itself. These will be in VBF format for Volvos. OrBit works with Volvo VBF format software files. OrBit only allows certain modules to be flashed based on successful testing, modules are added as they are tested to work. To flash software to a module:

Connect to the car
Switch to the "ECU Tools" tab
In the ECU Flash box, use the buttons to choose the files for flashing
Click "load SBL" and choose the SBL software VBF
Click "load VBF" and choose the software VBF file you want to flash
You don't specify the module to flash, OrBit reads the VBF files to know which ECU it is for
OrBit will verify the ECU matches between the SBL and software VBF files

ECUFlashing.png (Size: 10.71 KB / Downloads: 1199)

OrBit verifies checksums in the VBF files, ECU match, car connected, licensed for flash etc. OrBit must also know the programming PIN of the ECU. For many ECUs OrBit already has the standard PIN loaded, for others (i.e. CEM) the unique PIN needs to be set in the car profile. if everything is good, the "Flash ECU" button is enabled.
Click the "Flash ECU" button, to proceed flashing the software to the car module
OrBit will return from the process with success, or if the flash fails, an error and reason will be given
OrBit only flashes a single software file at a time. When flashing multiple software files to the same module, you will need to run this process for each software to flash. You can flash a single module repeatedly, leaving the same SBL specified, choosing a new software file to flash via "Load VBF" each time.
When flashing software via this process, OrBit skips "post programming" process (clear codes, restart IHU etc.), to save time when flashing multiple softwares. So keep in mind you may want to clear codes, restart modules, ABS clear etc. on your own, after all software has been loaded. Also you may disable "programming checks" (check all ECUs are awake and in programming mode before every flash) as well. This is checkbox is under advanced OrBit settings on the "Experts Toolbox" tab.

ProgrammingChecks.png (Size: 9.85 KB / Downloads: 1086)

About "ABS Clear Config"

Tue, 21 Mar 2023 13:29:29 +0000

Some information on the "ABS Clear Config" function and what it means when changing configuration with OrBit.

Technically the ABS Clear Config is "Clear ABS System variant coding" in Volvo language. It is a process that is run on the brake control module (BCM or BCM2), it clears the configuration of the ABS system itself. This causes the ABS system to "reconfigure" itself, which is useful for changing configuration like we do with OrBit, this makes the ABS/ESC system "take" the new configuration change you have made. It's a necessary step for some configuration changes, like enable/disable Pilot Assist and Adaptive Cruise Control (PA/ACC). Until the ABS Clear Config is run, the brake system will not "take" the new configuration from the car.

The config items that require the ABS Clear Config is any setting that relates to the ESC and ABS system: Cruise Control, TPMS, Collision Safety systems, anything to do with brakes, wheels and tires.

OrBit knows a list of items that need ABS Clear Config, and it will run that automatically in post-programming if you change those items. For most cases that is all you need to know! You change config, OrBit writes it and the ABS Clear is run and everything works. Also when you run the "Restore OEM" process, the ABS Clear will be run in post-programming automatically, as we don't know what you could have changed that we revert when restoring the OEM configuration, so OrBit runs it in post-programming in that process as well.

Things can happen though, the ABS Clear Config process failed in post-programming, or you see some problems with the car after config change. Here is what to do in those cases to troubleshoot:

If Write config is successful, but screen log in OrBit shows "ABS Clear config failed":

Run it manually, via the "ABS Clear Config" button in OrBit

If Write config is successful but the car now has many messages in the driver display (DIM) with new config:

If you have many messages in the DIM related to the ESC/ABS such as "ESC System disabled", "Parking Brake Unavailable", "Park Assist Temporarily Unavailable" you may have a configuration that needs to have the ABS Clear Config run
Run the ABS Clear Config manually, clear codes, and check the car again
Disconnect OrBit, turn the car off, then start the car up as normal to confirm if the messages go away
If the messages do not go away, even after you have run "ABS Clear Config" successfully, you may have changed a configuration item that is not compatible with the car. (Example, setting the PA/ACC system level "too high" to a level the car does not support)
If you are not able to resolve the issue by running ABS Clear Config, you can try correcting your config settings changes you made, and write new config with OrBit to try to figure out the incompatible setting and find what works for your car.
You can always run the "Restore OEM" process to change the config back to original, which should also run the ABS Clear Config for you, to restore the systems to original working status.

How to troubleshoot unable to connect to the car in OrBit

Sat, 25 Feb 2023 20:37:53 +0000

**updated Mar 2025**
Modern Volvos/Polestars that OrBit works with all use "DoIP" - Diagnostics over IP connection. Which, for us DIY-ers, is the fancy way to say the connection uses Ethernet, i.e. a wired network port on a computer. Dealers use WiFi connection but us consumers do not have access to that.

The good: The adapters are cheap and all you need is a computer with a common wired network jack. Any Volvo VOE or BMW ENET wired adapter can be used.
The bad: There is no specific hardware like "DiCE", there are thousands of different hardware variations of the common network card, which is subject to all of the "goings on" in Windows to do with drivers and networks.

If OrBit is unable to connect to the car and you see any of the following messages in the screen log in OrBit:

NOTE: No car network is detected, trying to connect anyways...
No cars found! Check cable, replug OBD connector, or check local firewall blocks OrBit from incoming connections
Waiting for the gateway to respond...

Follow the below steps to address some known issues that can cause this problem...

Make sure you are using the correct adapter type!

OrBit uses the Volvo VOE type connection. The adapter connects the OBD port in the car to an Ethernet network port in the computer
For laptops without and ethernet port, a USB ethernet adapter can be used.
Any aftermarket adapter compatible with Volvo VOE or BMW ENET should work fine.

Re-plug the OBD end of the VOE adapter:

The car will timeout and disable the connection if a tool (OrBit) is not connected within 5-10 minutes
Remove and re-plug the OBD plug to re-activate the connection, then try to connect with OrBit again

...if still unable to connect OrBit, check the car network is present:

Click on the network tray icon in Windows, and check that an Ethernet (wired) network is connected
The network will usually be named "Unidentified Network" and should also show "No Internet"
For tech savvy users, the network adapter should be set to defaults: DHCP and Windows will set an "APIPA" address in the 169.254.x.x range

NetworkCheck.JPG (Size: 32.43 KB / Downloads: 237)

...if you DO find the Ethernet network connected, disable the Windows Defender Firewall temporarily:

Disable Firewall for all networks shown as (active)
IF you have a 3rd party security or anti-virus software with firewall, you will need to refer to vendor specific info to temporarily disable it.
IF you use any VPN software you should close/disable this as well for testing
If disabling the Windows Defender Firewall resolves the issue, re-enable the firewall, then uninstall OrBit from Windows control panel, and re-install it. OrBit creates firewall exceptions in Defender when it is installed.
If disabling 3rd party security or VPN software resolves the issue, you may need to create an exception to allow OrBit to connect to the car. You will need to refer to vendor specific support and information for this. (Firewall Info: OrBit should have port 13400 TCP+UDP incoming connections allowed, and no restrictions on outgoing traffic from OrBitRun.exe)

FirewallDisabled.JPG (Size: 48.96 KB / Downloads: 236)

...if you still cannot connect to the car, or you found NO Ethernet network connected, the issue may be with the car:

For AAOS cars, try resetting the TCAM gateway in the car (skip for Sensus):

In the car, push the front defogger button on the climate control, hold for 10-20 secs until the "SOS" button in the overhead console flashes
Release the front defogger button
Wait a few minutes, try to connect to the car with OrBit
If the "SOS" button does not flash when trying the TCAM reset, the TCAM is not responding, move on to the battery reset

...if restarting the gateway does not resolve the problem or for Sensus car, perform a battery reset:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the 12V battery
Wait a minute
Reconnect the negative battery terminal
Try to connect again and see if it succeeds

...if you still have trouble connecting:

If there is still no "Ethernet" network showing in Windows, there could be a problem with the VOE adapter you have
It can be helpful to try with another computer if you have one available
It may be neccessary in some extreme cases to totally de-power the TCAM (AAOS) or VCM (Sensus) gateway to restore functionality. The backup battery would need to be unplugged from the module while car power is interrupted.
You may want to contact support-at-spaycetechcom we are happy to try to help you if you still have an issue!

How to put your car in Active Mode

Thu, 02 Feb 2023 21:29:26 +0000

****You no longer need to manually put the car in "Active Mode" with the release of OrBit v0.3.1****
Most functions (code reading and clearing etc.) can be done in any mode. For flashing and functions that require Active mode, OrBit will switch the car mode
For PHEV and EV most models, OrBit controls the battery contactors when needed as well
See here for release notes and download latest OrBit version here
****You can still put the car in Active Mode manually if you like, it will not cause any problem. The instructions below are for reference on how to do that****

How to get into Active Mode depends on if your car has the start knob (ICE/PHEV) or no start knob (EV):

ICE/PHEV:
Sit in the car, have fob within range
Turn the start knob once quick with foot off brake to accessory mode
Turn and hold the start knob for 5-10 secs, foot off brake, until you see the dash light up, hear some noises under the hood etc.

EV:
Have the remote fob with you, sit inside th car and close the door
On the fob, press LOCK then UNLOCK
Press on the brake pedal and hold
Press the hazard flasher button twice, i.e. ON then OFF

**For issues with T8 vehicles "mode not correct for programming" see the post below**