Installation:
I started with the trunk lid. A new lock (with the power latch motor) and the button are installed in the lid.
I decided not to drill any new holes in the lid. I mounted the power latch motor on a custom-made plastic bracket, which I secured using the existing holes.
I wrapped the power latch motor cable in self-adhesive foam, which I salvaged from the donor wiring harness.
I ran all the wiring along the factory harness route.
I didn't mount the control module to the body; instead, I hung it on a long bolt, as a threaded hole for it was found right here.
Next, I installed and connected the power strut.
I connected the module to the TRM connector.
And for the grand finale — I went to run the wires to the CEM… For this, I bought 10 meters of 0.75 mm² wire.
The route crosses from the right side to the left side under the carpet beneath the rear seat cushion and then continues along the left side.
The CEM module itself hangs on the body to the left of the driver's footwell. There is no need to remove it.
You just need to drop the panel under the steering column, and the necessary wiring harness can be disconnected from the CEM and pulled down to the pedal assembly area.
On Android-based cars, these wires need to be pinned into the FL connector at pins 6 and 8.
The pins themselves used there are 1393366-1.
Also installed the power outlet
After installing the kit, you need to change the vehicle configuration by setting the following values:
SELF OPENING BOOTLID/TAILGATE
With power operated tailgate or trunk lid
POWER-OPERATED TAILGATE SWITCH BUTTONS
Both
Power Operated Tailgate (POT)
Mounted
In the end, everything works exactly as it should from the factory.
It both opens and closes from all command sources — the key, the button on the lid itself (both closing and locking the central lock), the button in the cabin, and via the foot wave sensor. The lid power latch works as well. If the lid encounters an obstacle in its path, it stops closing.
The first downside is that the trunk lid has become heavier, and the power strut itself creates resistance when opening it.
The strut does not open the lid, it only closes it! The springs are what open it!
And the factory springs no longer have enough force for this.
You could install springs from an S90, but for now, I took a different route.
I moved both springs to the "maximum tension" position (they were set to the middle position from the factory) and clamped a few coils of the spring on both sides using heavy-duty zip ties.
It works great. If the springs sag over time, you can just increase the number of blocked coils.
Keep this in mind if your trunk lid has stopped lifting on its own
If any flaws in this method come to light, then it will be possible to replace the springs with new ones from an S90 (which will also sag over time, bringing us right back to zip ties, haha).
The second downside is that a fault code will pop up in the diagnostics. The POT module expects to see vehicle model V541 (S90) or L541 (S90L) in the configuration, but it sees V431 (S60) and throws a configuration error. However, this does not affect functionality in any way.
If you gather all the components in advance and muster up some courage, everything can be implemented in a single day
I bought used parts, so as for the money, the total cost for absolutely everything came out to around 150 USD.
I started with the trunk lid. A new lock (with the power latch motor) and the button are installed in the lid.
I decided not to drill any new holes in the lid. I mounted the power latch motor on a custom-made plastic bracket, which I secured using the existing holes.
I wrapped the power latch motor cable in self-adhesive foam, which I salvaged from the donor wiring harness.
I ran all the wiring along the factory harness route.
I didn't mount the control module to the body; instead, I hung it on a long bolt, as a threaded hole for it was found right here.
Next, I installed and connected the power strut.
I connected the module to the TRM connector.
And for the grand finale — I went to run the wires to the CEM… For this, I bought 10 meters of 0.75 mm² wire.
The route crosses from the right side to the left side under the carpet beneath the rear seat cushion and then continues along the left side.
The CEM module itself hangs on the body to the left of the driver's footwell. There is no need to remove it.
You just need to drop the panel under the steering column, and the necessary wiring harness can be disconnected from the CEM and pulled down to the pedal assembly area.
On Android-based cars, these wires need to be pinned into the FL connector at pins 6 and 8.
The pins themselves used there are 1393366-1.
Also installed the power outlet
After installing the kit, you need to change the vehicle configuration by setting the following values:
SELF OPENING BOOTLID/TAILGATE
With power operated tailgate or trunk lid
POWER-OPERATED TAILGATE SWITCH BUTTONS
Both
Power Operated Tailgate (POT)
Mounted
In the end, everything works exactly as it should from the factory.
It both opens and closes from all command sources — the key, the button on the lid itself (both closing and locking the central lock), the button in the cabin, and via the foot wave sensor. The lid power latch works as well. If the lid encounters an obstacle in its path, it stops closing.
The first downside is that the trunk lid has become heavier, and the power strut itself creates resistance when opening it.
The strut does not open the lid, it only closes it! The springs are what open it!
And the factory springs no longer have enough force for this.
You could install springs from an S90, but for now, I took a different route.
I moved both springs to the "maximum tension" position (they were set to the middle position from the factory) and clamped a few coils of the spring on both sides using heavy-duty zip ties.
It works great. If the springs sag over time, you can just increase the number of blocked coils.
Keep this in mind if your trunk lid has stopped lifting on its own
If any flaws in this method come to light, then it will be possible to replace the springs with new ones from an S90 (which will also sag over time, bringing us right back to zip ties, haha).
The second downside is that a fault code will pop up in the diagnostics. The POT module expects to see vehicle model V541 (S90) or L541 (S90L) in the configuration, but it sees V431 (S60) and throws a configuration error. However, this does not affect functionality in any way.
If you gather all the components in advance and muster up some courage, everything can be implemented in a single day
(2 hours ago)ChainedAlice Wrote: Incredible write up missing just one thing: what did this cost all in??
I bought used parts, so as for the money, the total cost for absolutely everything came out to around 150 USD.