Battery Chargers

[BeachBoy]

Volvo recommends a 55 AMP charger while working on the car. Although not using one or a simple trickle charger can work for quick updates, it is better to keep the car connecter to a high-capacity charger for extended work. Many users have been using Vida extensively with a 20 Amp charger so that is likely a more affordable options.

Here are some options found using Google

55 Amp $195: https://www.amazon.com/DLS-55-AUTOMATIC-...B0074JVO0A
45 Amp $187: https://www.amazon.com/Iota-DLS-45-Autom...B0074JVN3S
30 Amp w/ Alt check $119: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-30-Am.../313553311
30 Amp $100: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-30-Am.../300385140
2/10/40/200A + Jump-Start $150: https://www.harborfreight.com/21040200a-...63423.html
20 Amp $55 (many brands on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Acid-Portabl...09ZLD6RJ5/
15 Amp $70: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vector-15-Am.../313803267

[Power6]

Thanks for this! As reccomended by most every mfr, they specify a "Power Supply" so it may help to have a charger that has a P/S mode.

Now I am not that smart about how that matters, I just know batt voltage reported in OrBit is 12.5V or so when charging and 13.5V in P/S mode. I haven't found a difference in how the car works for diag and config either way, as long as the battery keeps up, it should work. When you are in "Active Mode" that seems to force everything to stay on (other than screen timeout on the IHU). If you forget to turn P/S mode sometimes like me...the car will run right on down to dead battery...

[x119]

Normal drills apply if you are feeling 'lucky' and don't want to plug in a charger:

> Lights OFF
> Fans / AC OFF
> Sound OFF

FWIW I have not plugged my car in during the whole crazy 6 months of fiddling with cars that ended up with this wonderful OrBit program! 

[Partridge]

Normal drills apply if you are feeling 'lucky' and don't want to plug in a charger:

> Lights OFF
> Fans / AC OFF
> Sound OFF

FWIW I have not plugged my car in during the whole crazy 6 months of fiddling with cars that ended up with this wonderful OrBit program! 

The process of just flashing a config file over with Orbit is so quick that plugging in shouldn’t really be necessary, but if I was doing some kind a software update with VIDA I’d plug in. 

Currently my process is turn on the vehicle (one turn) which will let the software connect to the vehicle and do diagnostics/read the config. At this point it’s not using as much power as when it’s active, which I guess conserves power while I’m poking around the options since I’m unfamiliar with them. 

Once I’ve selected the changes I’m making I flip the vehicle into active mode (turn and hold) which powers up all the systems, then I’ll do the flash.

[Power6]

I'd agree, as "not reccomended" as it is, you can def config flash the car without being connected to power, there is time. Just don't dally around poking at stuff for a while in Active Mode...




Expert Tip: If you want to speed up the flashing process, on Experts Toolbox tab there is a feature to "skip checks" on programming. If you enable, OrBit skips all the "non-essential checks" like all ECUs responding, all ECUs in programmin mode. It's really there to get around if a module or two is being a pain and won't pass pre-programming checks so OrBit fails the flashing process, it's best to run all the checks, but if you are in a hurry...

[EricSan]

Has anyone used an actual "power supply" as opposed to a "battery charger" ?

I'm thinking of using a $31 Meanwell SMPS like this one:

Mean Well LRS-200-12 Single Output Switching Mode Power Supply 204W 12VDC 17A

It can be adjusted to a max of about 13.6v output.  Just add a couple of heavy-duty clips and some 10g wire.

Any problems with a set up like this?  They also have a 29A version for a few $ more.

[Partridge]

Has anyone used an actual "power supply" as opposed to a "battery charger" ?

I'm thinking of using a $31 Meanwell SMPS like this one:

Mean Well LRS-200-12 Single Output Switching Mode Power Supply 204W 12VDC 17A

It can be adjusted to a max of about 13.6v output.  Just add a couple of heavy-duty clips and some 10g wire.

Any problems with a set up like this?  They also have a 29A version for a few $ more.

People in the BMW world have been using lightly modified surplus computer power supplies (server class) for years.

[EricSan]

I did come across the HP server PSU in one of the BMW forums.  Given $20 used, it seems safer to go with $35 for a new one. Just wondering if Volvos would be just as happy with this type of power supply...

[FlyingPilot2012]

I have a Schumacher SC1281 battery charger/jumper. It says it can provide 2A, 6A or 12A continuously and 30A or 100A intermittently. I'm definitely not worried about the power needed to run Orbit. 

However, I have yet to get my pin and I was planning to use VIDA/Wireshark to acquire my PIN. I figure I will also run a Total Upgrade, which I heard from another user that it takes about 45 minutes. 

Any thoughts on if my charger is sufficient? I did apply an amp meter to the positive cable while plugged in and with everything was on (accessory mode). I think the highest draw I saw from the car was 9 amps. 

2018 XC60 T5 R-Design

[mamous]

I have a Schumacher SC1281 battery charger/jumper. It says it can provide 2A, 6A or 12A continuously and 30A or 100A intermittently. I'm definitely not worried about the power needed to run Orbit. 

However, I have yet to get my pin and I was planning to use VIDA/Wireshark to acquire my PIN. I figure I will also run a Total Upgrade, which I heard from another user that it takes about 45 minutes. 

Any thoughts on if my charger is sufficient? I did apply an amp meter to the positive cable while plugged in and with everything was on (accessory mode). I think the highest draw I saw from the car was 9 amps. 

2018 XC60 T5 R-Design

as far as I can tell I believe that should be sufficient for it (If I'm incorrect please someone correct me).
I currently use the Dewalt 30amp (link) which does have similar specs except it's 80amp instead of 100amp on your SC1281 for engine start.

I ran multiple TU and did some work with VIDA & Orbit without any issues.

Here is what I usually do, it might not be the best approach:
before doing anything with the car I go for a drive for about 15-20 min on AWD or Power mode, where it's gonna run the engine instead of just using the T8 Battery
Then once I get back and hook up everything there is the (Start/Stop) I would press that one and you should see the device is charging "Starting up the car with 100amp if needed" and I will run the TU.
I keep monitoring the battery from the charger and VIDA if I start to see a fast drop and the charger is not running I would press the button again.