Question regarding base to HK amplifier uograde

[SlapNutz]

Hi everyone

A quick question before I dip into buying orbit, I have a Volvo XC90 2016 and I have I believe the following setup with an amplifier not HK or b&w, i know I have 10 speakers in the front and back doors haven't checked the headliner but grills are there.

Question is I managed to pickup a HK amplifier and plugged it in and was able to see the equaliser change from 5 to 7 or more but the sound wasn't right.

Volume was low and couldn't hear any vocals it was mostly music and in mid also the bass was very echoey and mid like.

Is it because I need to change the sound profile via or it for it to work properly? 

I'm happy with the current amount of speakers I have just would like more oomph.

Is the above because I'm missing speakers or because I need to adjust the sound profile to match amplifier or is the base wiring different from HK.

My current amp has 

Power connector
Optical connecter 
2 speaker connectors.

Should this be a simple plug and play amp swap? Or adjustments need to be made after amp change?

Regards
Slapz

[Sieluck]

HK is a different story. Beside probable power supply it has more speakers and different Ohms.
To quickly increase your audio capability it is the easiest just to change HP speakers for DLS. They are plug an play and many people, including myself, are happy with the result. Some say DLS are better than HK. But if you really think of changing HP audio do it for BW.

Wysłane z mojego CPH2581 przy użyciu Tapatalka

[SlapNutz]

HK is a different story. Beside probable power supply it has more speakers and different Ohms.
To quickly increase your audio capability it is the easiest just to change HP speakers for DLS. They are plug an play and many people, including myself, are happy with the result. Some say DLS are better than HK. But if you really think of changing HP audio do it for BW.

Wysłane z mojego CPH2581 przy użyciu Tapatalka

I totally forgot to mention, I have already upgraded the door woofers to audison, Maintained the original speaker bucket / housing with the capacitor on them, will that be causing the issue? 

When you say upgrade hp speakers to DLS you mean from my base system to b&w?

Happy with speaker upgrade but just want to give it more power from a standard 300 watt amp to a 600 or so HK.

Just need to know how to go about to get the sound working properly?

Sounded like an echoey concert after amp swap.

Regards
Slapz

[Sieluck]

HK is a different story. Beside probable power supply it has more speakers and different Ohms.
To quickly increase your audio capability it is the easiest just to change HP speakers for DLS. They are plug an play and many people, including myself, are happy with the result. Some say DLS are better than HK. But if you really think of changing HP audio do it for BW.

Wysłane z mojego CPH2581 przy użyciu Tapatalka

When you say upgrade hp speakers to DLS you mean from my base system to b&w?

DLS is an audio company based in Sweden who makes speakers for Volvo and other manufacturers.
https://dls.se/
I've changed all 10 speakers from HP audio so the amplifier is still the same. Quality of sound has gone up a lot.
I'm not an audio freak but couldn't stand the sound from HPA. Some poople say on a Polish volvo forum that DLS upgrade in terms of audio quality is comparable to HK. I don't know that for sure.

From what I remember simple amplifier swap is not possible. You have to go for whole lot: speakers, amplifier wiring.

Wysłane z mojego CPH2581 przy użyciu Tapatalka

[SlapNutz]

Okay so I checked my current speaker setup and I have 12 speakers

Just missing 2 from rear doors
Sub and centre dash.

I guess my question is this for someone who has done this that by plugging in a HK amp and setting correct profile via orbit the sound will change to how it's meant to be even though I'm missing sub and centre dash as I really don't want to buy a years sub and pin unlock, change profile and it's exactly the same as echoey concert hall sound which I'm getting by plugging in just the HK amp with no sound profile change.

Regards

[IMAY2023]

You can replace your current AUD (amp) with the AUD HK or BW but there wouldn't be any point doing that without changing the config of the car from High Performance to High Performance Plus (for HK AUD) or to Premium Audio (for B&W AUD). 
Not only that, 
90 series have different wiring on the rear doors. 
As far as I know, On your current setup (High Performance) Each rear door has only one channel. Meaning Woofer, + Tweeter + MID (If you have)  are all in parallel. You must verify this before replacing your AUD. 

With 90 series HK and B&W AUD.  Each rear door has two channels going from the amp to each door. Meaning Woofer and (Tweeter + MID) are on separate channels.  MID and Tweeter are in parallel. 

In addition, 
HK and BW AUD software is different for 90 and 60 series.  60 series (HK and B&W)  has only one channel going to the rear doors meaning woofer and tweeter are in parallel. 

I would not recommend replacing your AUD without replacing the speakers you can easily blow your speakers. 
If you are interested,  I have a full set of HK speakers includes center grill, 60 series HK AUD, 90 series B&W AUD and 90 series B&W SUB for sale.

[SlapNutz]

You can replace your current AUD (amp) with the AUD HK or BW but there wouldn't be any point doing that without changing the config of the car from High Performance to High Performance Plus (for HK AUD) or to Premium Audio (for B&W AUD). 
Not only that, 
90 series have different wiring on the rear doors. 
As far as I know, On your current setup (High Performance) Each rear door has only one channel. Meaning Woofer, + Tweeter + MID (If you have)  are all in parallel. You must verify this before replacing your AUD. 

With 90 series HK and B&W AUD.  Each rear door has two channels going from the amp to each door. Meaning Woofer and (Tweeter + MID) are on separate channels.  MID and Tweeter are in parallel. 

In addition, 
HK and BW AUD software is different for 90 and 60 series.  60 series (HK and B&W)  has only one channel going to the rear doors meaning woofer and tweeter are in parallel. 

I would not recommend replacing your AUD without replacing the speakers you can easily blow your speakers. 
If you are interested,  I have a full set of HK speakers includes center grill, 60 series HK AUD, 90 series B&W AUD and 90 series B&W SUB for sale.

Hi

Thank you for the input. So I have checked my speakers in my XC90 and I believe I have a 10 speaker setup

3 in front each door
1 woofer in each rear door no mids or tweeter.
Rear ceiling 2 speakers
No woofer 

I checked and centre dash speaker wire is there but no speaker.

I have already upgraded speakers to audison 3 way in the front and woofers in the rear doors.

I have acquired a XC90 2021 H&K amplifier

I have been doing some research and it seems firstly I need to switch some wires from one section to another on connector D and then run 2 sets of wires to front doors each for each channel and 2 sets of wire for each rear door.

Once that's done then I need to change amp and profile to HK.

This is where I am currently at.

I need to find out what the tool is which will help my remove the pins out from the connectors and move them to another location.  This is what needs doing and what the difference is between base and HK/ BW

Differences:
Move D13/D3 to D11/D1
Move D14/D4 to D22/D10
Add D13/D3 to Left Rear Shelf
Add D14/4 to Right Rear Shelf
Add D18/D6 to Left Rear Midrange
Add D20/D8 to Right Rear Midrange
Add C15/C7 for Subwoofer
Add C10/C2 for Center Dash Speaker

Bowers Amp


Connector D
D11/ D1 = Left Front Door Midrange
D12/ D2 = Not Used
D13/ D3 = Left Rear Hat Shelf
D14/ D4 = Right Rear Hat Shelf
D15/ D5 = Not Used
D16 = Not Used
D17 = Not Used
D18/ D6 = Left Rear Door Midrange
D19/ D7 = Not Used
D20/ D8 = Right Rear Door Midrange
D21/ D9 = Not Used
D22/ D10 = Right Front Door Midrange

Connector C

C16/ C8 = Not Used
C15/ C7 = Subwoofer
C14/ C6 = Not Used
C13/ C5 = Right Rear Door Woofer
C12/ C4 = Left Rear Door Woofer
C11/ C3 = Right Front Door Woofer
C10/ C2 = Center Dash Speaker
C9/ C1 = Left Front Door Woofer


Base Amp

Connector D

D11/ D1 = Not Used
D12/ D2 = Not Used
D13/ D3 = Left Front Door Midrange
D14/ D4 = Right Front Door Midrange
D15/ D5 = Not Used
D16 = Not Used
D17 = Not Used
D18/ D6 = Not Used
D19/ D7 = Not Used
D20/ D8 = Not Used
D21/ D9 = Not Used
D22/ D10 = Not Used

Connector C

C16/ C8 = Not Used
C15/ C7 = Not Used
C14/ C6 = Not Used
C13/ C5 = Right Rear Door Woofer
C12/ C4 = Left Rear Door Woofer
C11/ C3 = Right Front Door Woofer
C10/ C2 = Not Used
C9/ C1 = Left Front Door Woofer

This the information I have managed to sum up

Hopefully this will also help someone whose in the situation as myself.

Please any further info or corrections do advise

Regards
Slapz