https://forums.spaycetech.com/ Sat, 25 Jul 2026 15:24:59 +0000 MyBB https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1395 Wed, 22 Jul 2026 15:06:42 +0000 iGeorge3]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1395
I am looking into changing my current interior on my MY2024 XC40 Recharge.
I found a great deal and before buying them I'd like to know what would be the technical limitations.

My XC40 is an iCup, car made in 2024, and the interior would come also from a 2023 XC40, MY2024 also but it's a hybrid with Sensus.
My current interior is the base interior: only lumbar adjustment with the small knob, otherwise fully manual seats without heating, ventilation or other fancy gimmicks.
The interior I'm looking at has it all: heating, memory function, perhaps ventilated, electrically rear foldable headrests, etc.

The cabling part doesn't scare me if it is needed. Same for coding.

I am mainly wondering the following:

• Are there any technical limitations that wouldn't allow for the seat to work? Physically all fits of course, but I'm wondering about the electronics part, if there is anything that wouldn't function properly
  
• What about coding the seat computers? Will it just be plugged in and work or will I face some difficulties, other than the obvious part that the CEM needs to be coded for the extra options?
  
• What about "sensus" seats going into an "iCup" car? Any limitations?
  

Thank you!]]>
I am looking into changing my current interior on my MY2024 XC40 Recharge.
I found a great deal and before buying them I'd like to know what would be the technical limitations.

My XC40 is an iCup, car made in 2024, and the interior would come also from a 2023 XC40, MY2024 also but it's a hybrid with Sensus.
My current interior is the base interior: only lumbar adjustment with the small knob, otherwise fully manual seats without heating, ventilation or other fancy gimmicks.
The interior I'm looking at has it all: heating, memory function, perhaps ventilated, electrically rear foldable headrests, etc.

The cabling part doesn't scare me if it is needed. Same for coding.

I am mainly wondering the following:

• Are there any technical limitations that wouldn't allow for the seat to work? Physically all fits of course, but I'm wondering about the electronics part, if there is anything that wouldn't function properly
  
• What about coding the seat computers? Will it just be plugged in and work or will I face some difficulties, other than the obvious part that the CEM needs to be coded for the extra options?
  
• What about "sensus" seats going into an "iCup" car? Any limitations?
  

Thank you!]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1394 Wed, 22 Jul 2026 11:33:36 +0000 Wattsy]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1394
Thanks in advance!!!]]>
Thanks in advance!!!]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1383 Sat, 18 Jul 2026 18:34:43 +0000 lucefan]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1383
I am retrofitting front parking sensors on my Volvo V60 2021 (Model Year 2022) Mild Hybrid B4 Diesel (SPA platform). I have already built my own DIY bumper harness, bought the OEM sensors (4 sensors), and have Orbit ready for activation. The car has Active Grille Shutters (AGS) but NO front fog lights and NO front camera.

I am completely confused about the main connector located under the front fender, and I suspect a local mechanic might be mistaken because he hasn't worked on these newer SPA Volvos before. He told me that the connector side with FEWER wires goes to the cabin module, and the side with MORE wires comes from the bumper. This sounds completely backwards to me and doesn't make sense.

Here is the actual situation on my car (attaching photos): On the chassis-side connector, the top row is completely blocked with white dummy plugs, and there are absolutely no wires entering it from behind. Only the bottom row has wires, which are running the Active Grille Shutters.

Since the mechanic got me confused, I want to ask those who have actually done this retrofit: what is the correct way to handle this? Since the chassis side is missing the wires for the park assist does it mean I have to manually pin them into the CEM/ASDM module in the cabin and run them through the firewall down to this fender connector?

For those who have done this DIY: how difficult is it to physically route these wires from the cabin out to the fender connector? Is there an easily accessible rubber grommet in the firewall, or does it require a lot of disassembly inside the cabin?

Could anyone please share the official Volvo Wiring Diagram (WDM) or the exact pinout for the CEM/ASDM for this model year? I really want to finish this retrofit properly but need to know exactly where to run the missing wires from the cabin.

Thank you so much for your help!

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  2026-07-18 21.32.56.jpg (Size: 390.06 KB / Downloads: 47)

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I am retrofitting front parking sensors on my Volvo V60 2021 (Model Year 2022) Mild Hybrid B4 Diesel (SPA platform). I have already built my own DIY bumper harness, bought the OEM sensors (4 sensors), and have Orbit ready for activation. The car has Active Grille Shutters (AGS) but NO front fog lights and NO front camera.

I am completely confused about the main connector located under the front fender, and I suspect a local mechanic might be mistaken because he hasn't worked on these newer SPA Volvos before. He told me that the connector side with FEWER wires goes to the cabin module, and the side with MORE wires comes from the bumper. This sounds completely backwards to me and doesn't make sense.

Here is the actual situation on my car (attaching photos): On the chassis-side connector, the top row is completely blocked with white dummy plugs, and there are absolutely no wires entering it from behind. Only the bottom row has wires, which are running the Active Grille Shutters.

Since the mechanic got me confused, I want to ask those who have actually done this retrofit: what is the correct way to handle this? Since the chassis side is missing the wires for the park assist does it mean I have to manually pin them into the CEM/ASDM module in the cabin and run them through the firewall down to this fender connector?

For those who have done this DIY: how difficult is it to physically route these wires from the cabin out to the fender connector? Is there an easily accessible rubber grommet in the firewall, or does it require a lot of disassembly inside the cabin?

Could anyone please share the official Volvo Wiring Diagram (WDM) or the exact pinout for the CEM/ASDM for this model year? I really want to finish this retrofit properly but need to know exactly where to run the missing wires from the cabin.

Thank you so much for your help!

  2026-07-18 21.33.00.jpg (Size: 391.76 KB / Downloads: 48)

  2026-07-18 21.32.56.jpg (Size: 390.06 KB / Downloads: 47)

  2026-07-18 21.32.52.jpg (Size: 146.82 KB / Downloads: 48) ]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1379 Wed, 15 Jul 2026 07:47:32 +0000 Amazinjoey]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1379 So I randomly bought a Polestar 2 because I got tired of filling the car and wanted something new to play with, and as someone who's not a fan of the HK audio in any Volvo.
Naturally, the immediate question is: Can we retrofit the B&W system into our older P2s?
I’ve spent more time than I should week digging into parts lists, wiring diagrams, and European forum threads to see if this is a realistic weekend DIY project, or if we're fighting a losing battle?  Thing is I never lose

So here's how , Parts list:


Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Parts List:
Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, LHD) 32350709 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, LHD) 32350736 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, LHD) 32350707 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr
Right-Hand Drive (RHD) Parts List


Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, RHD) 32350710 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, RHD) 32350737 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, RHD) 32350708 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr

What Can We Cross-Source?
Many of the drivers in this setup are heavily shared with Volvo's larger SPA-platform vehicles (XC90, V90, V60, XC60), but there are some critical quirks and differences you need to know:

Tweeter-on-Top & Midrange and Base Speaker (Dashboard): These physical assemblies are connected to each other. This is a completely brand-new product design necessitated by the Polestar 2's unique, shallow dashboard geometry.

Midrange Door Speakers (32350712): These are physically identical to the 80mm B&W door midranges found in the XC90, V60, and XC60 (2021+ models). The only modification needed is the addition of some foam weather stripping to ensure a perfect seal against the P2's door cards.

A-Pillar Tweeters (32350711): Physically the same dome units used in the XC90. Crucial Note: These are 4-ohm drivers, whereas the older stock HK tweeters run at 12 ohms. If you run these on the stock HK amp, you risk burning out the channels or severely clipping the signal. You absolutely need the B&W amp to run these safely.

Rear Door Woofers (31489043) & Rear Shelf Surrounds (31438338): Good news here—these are completely identical to the stock HK parts already installed in older Polestar 2s. No need to swap them out.

Rear Door Tweeter (32200034): Identical to those found in the XC90, V90, and other modern SPA Volvos. Easy to find on the salvage market. Same as the A piller ones 4ohm and needs BW Amp

The Subwoofer (32350738): This is technically a new part number for the P2, but it uses the exact same 250mm (10-inch) "Fresh Air" structural design as the Volvo SPA subs.

The physical swap is relatively straightforward, but the brain of the system is where the real work lies:
The Amp: The hardware itself is shared with the V60/XC60 B&W system.
The Software Catch: It requires totally different AUD (Audio Module) firmware/software to map the channels, DSP, and EQ curves specifically to the Polestar 2 cabin.

I’m currently digging into how we can flash the correct calibrationonto a salvaged BW amp. If someone has more insights into this feel free to correct me. I have ZERO knowledge about AUD and the BW amps



]]> So I randomly bought a Polestar 2 because I got tired of filling the car and wanted something new to play with, and as someone who's not a fan of the HK audio in any Volvo.
Naturally, the immediate question is: Can we retrofit the B&W system into our older P2s?
I’ve spent more time than I should week digging into parts lists, wiring diagrams, and European forum threads to see if this is a realistic weekend DIY project, or if we're fighting a losing battle?  Thing is I never lose

So here's how , Parts list:


Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Parts List:
Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, LHD) 32350709 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, LHD) 32350736 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, LHD) 32350707 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr
Right-Hand Drive (RHD) Parts List


Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, RHD) 32350710 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, RHD) 32350737 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, RHD) 32350708 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr

What Can We Cross-Source?
Many of the drivers in this setup are heavily shared with Volvo's larger SPA-platform vehicles (XC90, V90, V60, XC60), but there are some critical quirks and differences you need to know:

Tweeter-on-Top & Midrange and Base Speaker (Dashboard): These physical assemblies are connected to each other. This is a completely brand-new product design necessitated by the Polestar 2's unique, shallow dashboard geometry.

Midrange Door Speakers (32350712): These are physically identical to the 80mm B&W door midranges found in the XC90, V60, and XC60 (2021+ models). The only modification needed is the addition of some foam weather stripping to ensure a perfect seal against the P2's door cards.

A-Pillar Tweeters (32350711): Physically the same dome units used in the XC90. Crucial Note: These are 4-ohm drivers, whereas the older stock HK tweeters run at 12 ohms. If you run these on the stock HK amp, you risk burning out the channels or severely clipping the signal. You absolutely need the B&W amp to run these safely.

Rear Door Woofers (31489043) & Rear Shelf Surrounds (31438338): Good news here—these are completely identical to the stock HK parts already installed in older Polestar 2s. No need to swap them out.

Rear Door Tweeter (32200034): Identical to those found in the XC90, V90, and other modern SPA Volvos. Easy to find on the salvage market. Same as the A piller ones 4ohm and needs BW Amp

The Subwoofer (32350738): This is technically a new part number for the P2, but it uses the exact same 250mm (10-inch) "Fresh Air" structural design as the Volvo SPA subs.

The physical swap is relatively straightforward, but the brain of the system is where the real work lies:
The Amp: The hardware itself is shared with the V60/XC60 B&W system.
The Software Catch: It requires totally different AUD (Audio Module) firmware/software to map the channels, DSP, and EQ curves specifically to the Polestar 2 cabin.

I’m currently digging into how we can flash the correct calibrationonto a salvaged BW amp. If someone has more insights into this feel free to correct me. I have ZERO knowledge about AUD and the BW amps



]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1373 Sun, 21 Jun 2026 22:04:19 +0000 krzysztof.pyzel@o2.pl]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1373
Po napotkaniu następujących błędów:

Co powinienem zmienić (może przesunąć coś ze starych siedzeń)?

Czy model z 2020 roku może mieć inny system SRS foteli?

Co powinienem przenieść ze starej wersji lub zmienić w Orbit?

@Power6, pomóż proszę.




]]>
Po napotkaniu następujących błędów:

Co powinienem zmienić (może przesunąć coś ze starych siedzeń)?

Czy model z 2020 roku może mieć inny system SRS foteli?

Co powinienem przenieść ze starej wersji lub zmienić w Orbit?

@Power6, pomóż proszę.




]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1341 Mon, 01 Jun 2026 15:23:39 +0000 mersadk]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1341 Is there an easy way to figure out if I have all the wiring without disassembling front bumper?

• Connectors on the front bumper harness
  
• All the wires in engine harness going to CEM
  

]]> Is there an easy way to figure out if I have all the wiring without disassembling front bumper?

• Connectors on the front bumper harness
  
• All the wires in engine harness going to CEM
  

]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1339 Sun, 31 May 2026 19:06:14 +0000 Wattsy]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1339
After buying several wrong parts and trying to find all the information in one spot and failing, here is a definitive guide with part numbers to retrofitting the factory reversing camera. This is just the rear one, not the 360 cameras.
This is for a 2022 R-Design with Sensus

Parts Needed: 
-Tailgate handle (with camera hole) Pt No: 32310006
-Camera Pt No: 32286680
-Loom Pt No: 31650607

The install instructions can be found here:  Parking assistance, camera, rear - XC40 2022 - Volvo Cars Accessories

The hardest part is getting cable through the boot(trunk) cable glands. After this, just run the loom, I managed to do it without taking all the trims off. Just find a way to run the loom to the centre console. Once there, I managed to put a long allen key to pull of the trim(the bit with the volume knob) its stiff, but will come. Once there, plug the loom into the correct socket.

Once all connected, go to Orbit, and activate 154. Then option 09 'Camera Gen 2 Always in Reverse''


Hope that helps!]]>
After buying several wrong parts and trying to find all the information in one spot and failing, here is a definitive guide with part numbers to retrofitting the factory reversing camera. This is just the rear one, not the 360 cameras.
This is for a 2022 R-Design with Sensus

Parts Needed: 
-Tailgate handle (with camera hole) Pt No: 32310006
-Camera Pt No: 32286680
-Loom Pt No: 31650607

The install instructions can be found here:  Parking assistance, camera, rear - XC40 2022 - Volvo Cars Accessories

The hardest part is getting cable through the boot(trunk) cable glands. After this, just run the loom, I managed to do it without taking all the trims off. Just find a way to run the loom to the centre console. Once there, I managed to put a long allen key to pull of the trim(the bit with the volume knob) its stiff, but will come. Once there, plug the loom into the correct socket.

Once all connected, go to Orbit, and activate 154. Then option 09 'Camera Gen 2 Always in Reverse''


Hope that helps!]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1338 Thu, 28 May 2026 10:11:29 +0000 Hawkis]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1338 can someone to tell me what i coded or done wrong that i cant see side bolsters in HU?i cant control these and know that they pulls sometimes litlle bit after starting a car.thanks
  image1.jpeg (Size: 771.54 KB / Downloads: 74)
  image0.jpeg (Size: 796.88 KB / Downloads: 73) ]]> can someone to tell me what i coded or done wrong that i cant see side bolsters in HU?i cant control these and know that they pulls sometimes litlle bit after starting a car.thanks
  image1.jpeg (Size: 771.54 KB / Downloads: 74)
  image0.jpeg (Size: 796.88 KB / Downloads: 73) ]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1323 Mon, 18 May 2026 23:05:49 +0000 83Greven]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1323
But - is there any way in 2026 to have the B&W listed as oem in the car so VIDA don't kicks back? I know that there are +99 threads about this matter but can't figure it out as people say all sort of things.]]>
But - is there any way in 2026 to have the B&W listed as oem in the car so VIDA don't kicks back? I know that there are +99 threads about this matter but can't figure it out as people say all sort of things.]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1311 Tue, 05 May 2026 20:20:18 +0000 Big Steve]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1311
Reason for asking is that I have a MY26 XC90 T8 Ultra (so it's an AA car) bought in the UK and I'm keen to have dTPMS, so did a bit of research into each of the potential stumbling points that I thought of, namely:

• Keyless frequency - took the key apart and checked under the blade, it shows that I have a car using 433Mhz
  
• Suitable TPMS sensor - after lots of searching I found that the Volvo USA website lists part number 32134419 (here) as being suitable for use with my car, along with numerous others, specifically the EX90 (2025-7), S90 (2027) and the XC90 (2016-2027). This appears to be a sensor generally for use with winter tyres, not that I can see any reason why winter / summer / all-season tyres would be able to facilitate or prevent such a sensor from working.
  
• The above TPMS sensor (32134419) also uses the 433Mhz frequency
  

I note the comment from Power6 in the first page of the main TPMS thread that AAOS didn't support dTPMS when he posted ~3 years ago, but that seems at odds with the list of suitable vehicles displayed on the above website, hence my question as to whether Volvo have now enabled dTPMS on AAOS vehicles.

I've not bought OrBit yet, however, if anyone is able to confirm that AAOS does now support dTPMS then I will definitely do so.

Thanks in advance, Steve.]]>
Reason for asking is that I have a MY26 XC90 T8 Ultra (so it's an AA car) bought in the UK and I'm keen to have dTPMS, so did a bit of research into each of the potential stumbling points that I thought of, namely:

• Keyless frequency - took the key apart and checked under the blade, it shows that I have a car using 433Mhz
  
• Suitable TPMS sensor - after lots of searching I found that the Volvo USA website lists part number 32134419 (here) as being suitable for use with my car, along with numerous others, specifically the EX90 (2025-7), S90 (2027) and the XC90 (2016-2027). This appears to be a sensor generally for use with winter tyres, not that I can see any reason why winter / summer / all-season tyres would be able to facilitate or prevent such a sensor from working.
  
• The above TPMS sensor (32134419) also uses the 433Mhz frequency
  

I note the comment from Power6 in the first page of the main TPMS thread that AAOS didn't support dTPMS when he posted ~3 years ago, but that seems at odds with the list of suitable vehicles displayed on the above website, hence my question as to whether Volvo have now enabled dTPMS on AAOS vehicles.

I've not bought OrBit yet, however, if anyone is able to confirm that AAOS does now support dTPMS then I will definitely do so.

Thanks in advance, Steve.]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1297 Mon, 27 Apr 2026 08:29:12 +0000 System]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1297 I'm considering converting a 2019 XC60 into a fully electric vehicle:
I have an XC60.
I also have a 2022 Polestar 2, all-wheel drive, with some body damage.
The conversion idea involves transferring the high-voltage battery, wiring, both electric motors, and as many electronic modules as possible from the Polestar to the Volvo XC60.
Of course, all engine and transmission components, as well as virtually all of the хс60’s electronics, will be removed.
The approximate physical layout of the high-voltage battery cells is clear. We have also considered mounting the electric motors and wheel drive on the XC60 body, as well as other mechanical issues.
There is a lot of uncertainty regarding the electronics.
It makes sense to keep some components (and their corresponding electronic modules) from the XC60. For example: the steering rack, front and rear headlights, seats, climate control system, panoramic sunroof, and likely the audio system. There are certainly others that are not yet clear.
In your opinion, will it be possible to properly interface the electronic modules of these HS60 systems with the Polestar 2 modules?]]> I'm considering converting a 2019 XC60 into a fully electric vehicle:
I have an XC60.
I also have a 2022 Polestar 2, all-wheel drive, with some body damage.
The conversion idea involves transferring the high-voltage battery, wiring, both electric motors, and as many electronic modules as possible from the Polestar to the Volvo XC60.
Of course, all engine and transmission components, as well as virtually all of the хс60’s electronics, will be removed.
The approximate physical layout of the high-voltage battery cells is clear. We have also considered mounting the electric motors and wheel drive on the XC60 body, as well as other mechanical issues.
There is a lot of uncertainty regarding the electronics.
It makes sense to keep some components (and their corresponding electronic modules) from the XC60. For example: the steering rack, front and rear headlights, seats, climate control system, panoramic sunroof, and likely the audio system. There are certainly others that are not yet clear.
In your opinion, will it be possible to properly interface the electronic modules of these HS60 systems with the Polestar 2 modules?]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1288 Sat, 18 Apr 2026 00:40:37 +0000 Felix]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1288 https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1280 Fri, 10 Apr 2026 10:30:42 +0000 hottt]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1280 https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1278 Thu, 09 Apr 2026 14:54:50 +0000 Sixtyfiive]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1278
I have a V90 Modellyear 2018

I’m planning to retrofit an R-Design steering wheel and I have a question.

I ordered one that comes with an extra cable which fits into the connector I marked in the picture. My current steering wheel doesn’t have anything connected there.

Does anyone know what this connector is for?

Can I still use the new steering wheel with that cable, or will I get any error messages if I leave it unused or connect it?

Also, does anyone know the correct torque spec (Nm) for the steering wheel bolt?

Thanks ?

  IMG_3142.jpeg (Size: 280.39 KB / Downloads: 80) ]]>
I have a V90 Modellyear 2018

I’m planning to retrofit an R-Design steering wheel and I have a question.

I ordered one that comes with an extra cable which fits into the connector I marked in the picture. My current steering wheel doesn’t have anything connected there.

Does anyone know what this connector is for?

Can I still use the new steering wheel with that cable, or will I get any error messages if I leave it unused or connect it?

Also, does anyone know the correct torque spec (Nm) for the steering wheel bolt?

Thanks ?

  IMG_3142.jpeg (Size: 280.39 KB / Downloads: 80) ]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1261 Tue, 24 Mar 2026 09:34:32 +0000 Dic84]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1261  
I want to know if:
 
-I need to change anything else despite the battery?
-I can pair the new battery with ORBIT software?
-I have any risks doing this?
 
Until now I have found solutions for OBC repair and I would like to offer also this options for Volvo`s passion people from my city.]]>  
I want to know if:
 
-I need to change anything else despite the battery?
-I can pair the new battery with ORBIT software?
-I have any risks doing this?
 
Until now I have found solutions for OBC repair and I would like to offer also this options for Volvo`s passion people from my city.]]>