https://forums.spaycetech.com/ Mon, 20 Jul 2026 06:16:20 +0000 MyBB https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1385 Mon, 20 Jul 2026 06:08:58 +0000 daskala1983]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1385 https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1384 Sat, 18 Jul 2026 22:49:18 +0000 RollDMC]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1384
Has anyone swapped out the high voltage battery in a Polelstar 2 or XC40/C40?
The Polestar 82kWh battery has been removed and replaced with a 78kWh HV battery from an XC40 though the car is not talking to the battery - which is a problem.

Is there a way to recode or reset wither wndf so they can talk?  They are both 2023 models and the XC40 is still available.

I am happy to do some debugging or code collections.

All leads appreciated.]]>
Has anyone swapped out the high voltage battery in a Polelstar 2 or XC40/C40?
The Polestar 82kWh battery has been removed and replaced with a 78kWh HV battery from an XC40 though the car is not talking to the battery - which is a problem.

Is there a way to recode or reset wither wndf so they can talk?  They are both 2023 models and the XC40 is still available.

I am happy to do some debugging or code collections.

All leads appreciated.]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1383 Sat, 18 Jul 2026 18:34:43 +0000 lucefan]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1383
I am retrofitting front parking sensors on my Volvo V60 2021 (Model Year 2022) Mild Hybrid B4 Diesel (SPA platform). I have already built my own DIY bumper harness, bought the OEM sensors (4 sensors), and have Orbit ready for activation. The car has Active Grille Shutters (AGS) but NO front fog lights and NO front camera.

I am completely confused about the main connector located under the front fender, and I suspect a local mechanic might be mistaken because he hasn't worked on these newer SPA Volvos before. He told me that the connector side with FEWER wires goes to the cabin module, and the side with MORE wires comes from the bumper. This sounds completely backwards to me and doesn't make sense.

Here is the actual situation on my car (attaching photos): On the chassis-side connector, the top row is completely blocked with white dummy plugs, and there are absolutely no wires entering it from behind. Only the bottom row has wires, which are running the Active Grille Shutters.

Since the mechanic got me confused, I want to ask those who have actually done this retrofit: what is the correct way to handle this? Since the chassis side is missing the wires for the park assist does it mean I have to manually pin them into the CEM/ASDM module in the cabin and run them through the firewall down to this fender connector?

For those who have done this DIY: how difficult is it to physically route these wires from the cabin out to the fender connector? Is there an easily accessible rubber grommet in the firewall, or does it require a lot of disassembly inside the cabin?

Could anyone please share the official Volvo Wiring Diagram (WDM) or the exact pinout for the CEM/ASDM for this model year? I really want to finish this retrofit properly but need to know exactly where to run the missing wires from the cabin.

Thank you so much for your help!

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I am retrofitting front parking sensors on my Volvo V60 2021 (Model Year 2022) Mild Hybrid B4 Diesel (SPA platform). I have already built my own DIY bumper harness, bought the OEM sensors (4 sensors), and have Orbit ready for activation. The car has Active Grille Shutters (AGS) but NO front fog lights and NO front camera.

I am completely confused about the main connector located under the front fender, and I suspect a local mechanic might be mistaken because he hasn't worked on these newer SPA Volvos before. He told me that the connector side with FEWER wires goes to the cabin module, and the side with MORE wires comes from the bumper. This sounds completely backwards to me and doesn't make sense.

Here is the actual situation on my car (attaching photos): On the chassis-side connector, the top row is completely blocked with white dummy plugs, and there are absolutely no wires entering it from behind. Only the bottom row has wires, which are running the Active Grille Shutters.

Since the mechanic got me confused, I want to ask those who have actually done this retrofit: what is the correct way to handle this? Since the chassis side is missing the wires for the park assist does it mean I have to manually pin them into the CEM/ASDM module in the cabin and run them through the firewall down to this fender connector?

For those who have done this DIY: how difficult is it to physically route these wires from the cabin out to the fender connector? Is there an easily accessible rubber grommet in the firewall, or does it require a lot of disassembly inside the cabin?

Could anyone please share the official Volvo Wiring Diagram (WDM) or the exact pinout for the CEM/ASDM for this model year? I really want to finish this retrofit properly but need to know exactly where to run the missing wires from the cabin.

Thank you so much for your help!

  2026-07-18 21.33.00.jpg (Size: 391.76 KB / Downloads: 13)

  2026-07-18 21.32.56.jpg (Size: 390.06 KB / Downloads: 12)

  2026-07-18 21.32.52.jpg (Size: 146.82 KB / Downloads: 13) ]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1381 Fri, 17 Jul 2026 19:49:02 +0000 roja]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1381 Is this normal because the system was added unofficially and the car detects that? Or do I need a different configuration level? At the moment, I have Level 2 without lane markings.

  Zrzut ekranu (6).png (Size: 186.41 KB / Downloads: 22) ]]> Is this normal because the system was added unofficially and the car detects that? Or do I need a different configuration level? At the moment, I have Level 2 without lane markings.

  Zrzut ekranu (6).png (Size: 186.41 KB / Downloads: 22) ]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1380 Thu, 16 Jul 2026 20:38:59 +0000 roja]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1380 https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1379 Wed, 15 Jul 2026 07:47:32 +0000 Amazinjoey]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1379 So I randomly bought a Polestar 2 because I got tired of filling the car and wanted something new to play with, and as someone who's not a fan of the HK audio in any Volvo.
Naturally, the immediate question is: Can we retrofit the B&W system into our older P2s?
I’ve spent more time than I should week digging into parts lists, wiring diagrams, and European forum threads to see if this is a realistic weekend DIY project, or if we're fighting a losing battle?  Thing is I never lose

So here's how , Parts list:


Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Parts List:
Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, LHD) 32350709 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, LHD) 32350736 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, LHD) 32350707 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr
Right-Hand Drive (RHD) Parts List


Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, RHD) 32350710 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, RHD) 32350737 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, RHD) 32350708 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr

What Can We Cross-Source?
Many of the drivers in this setup are heavily shared with Volvo's larger SPA-platform vehicles (XC90, V90, V60, XC60), but there are some critical quirks and differences you need to know:

Tweeter-on-Top & Midrange and Base Speaker (Dashboard): These physical assemblies are connected to each other. This is a completely brand-new product design necessitated by the Polestar 2's unique, shallow dashboard geometry.

Midrange Door Speakers (32350712): These are physically identical to the 80mm B&W door midranges found in the XC90, V60, and XC60 (2021+ models). The only modification needed is the addition of some foam weather stripping to ensure a perfect seal against the P2's door cards.

A-Pillar Tweeters (32350711): Physically the same dome units used in the XC90. Crucial Note: These are 4-ohm drivers, whereas the older stock HK tweeters run at 12 ohms. If you run these on the stock HK amp, you risk burning out the channels or severely clipping the signal. You absolutely need the B&W amp to run these safely.

Rear Door Woofers (31489043) & Rear Shelf Surrounds (31438338): Good news here—these are completely identical to the stock HK parts already installed in older Polestar 2s. No need to swap them out.

Rear Door Tweeter (32200034): Identical to those found in the XC90, V90, and other modern SPA Volvos. Easy to find on the salvage market. Same as the A piller ones 4ohm and needs BW Amp

The Subwoofer (32350738): This is technically a new part number for the P2, but it uses the exact same 250mm (10-inch) "Fresh Air" structural design as the Volvo SPA subs.

The physical swap is relatively straightforward, but the brain of the system is where the real work lies:
The Amp: The hardware itself is shared with the V60/XC60 B&W system.
The Software Catch: It requires totally different AUD (Audio Module) firmware/software to map the channels, DSP, and EQ curves specifically to the Polestar 2 cabin.

I’m currently digging into how we can flash the correct calibrationonto a salvaged BW amp. If someone has more insights into this feel free to correct me. I have ZERO knowledge about AUD and the BW amps



]]> So I randomly bought a Polestar 2 because I got tired of filling the car and wanted something new to play with, and as someone who's not a fan of the HK audio in any Volvo.
Naturally, the immediate question is: Can we retrofit the B&W system into our older P2s?
I’ve spent more time than I should week digging into parts lists, wiring diagrams, and European forum threads to see if this is a realistic weekend DIY project, or if we're fighting a losing battle?  Thing is I never lose

So here's how , Parts list:


Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Parts List:
Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, LHD) 32350709 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, LHD) 32350736 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, LHD) 32350707 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr
Right-Hand Drive (RHD) Parts List


Part Name OE Number Price (SEK)
Tweeter-on-Top (Center Dash, RHD) 32350710 ~4 090 kr
Base Speaker (Dashboard, RHD) 32350737 ~2 790 kr
Midrange Speaker (Center Dash, RHD) 32350708 ~2 790 kr
Tweeter (A-Pillar) 32350711 ~4 090 kr
Midrange Speaker (Front Door) 32350712 ~2 790 kr
Base Woofer (Rear Door) 31489043 ~1 015 kr
Tweeter (Rear Door) 32200034 ~1 015 kr
Surround Speaker (Rear Shelf) 31438338 ~2 537 kr
Subwoofer 32350738 ~5 930 kr

What Can We Cross-Source?
Many of the drivers in this setup are heavily shared with Volvo's larger SPA-platform vehicles (XC90, V90, V60, XC60), but there are some critical quirks and differences you need to know:

Tweeter-on-Top & Midrange and Base Speaker (Dashboard): These physical assemblies are connected to each other. This is a completely brand-new product design necessitated by the Polestar 2's unique, shallow dashboard geometry.

Midrange Door Speakers (32350712): These are physically identical to the 80mm B&W door midranges found in the XC90, V60, and XC60 (2021+ models). The only modification needed is the addition of some foam weather stripping to ensure a perfect seal against the P2's door cards.

A-Pillar Tweeters (32350711): Physically the same dome units used in the XC90. Crucial Note: These are 4-ohm drivers, whereas the older stock HK tweeters run at 12 ohms. If you run these on the stock HK amp, you risk burning out the channels or severely clipping the signal. You absolutely need the B&W amp to run these safely.

Rear Door Woofers (31489043) & Rear Shelf Surrounds (31438338): Good news here—these are completely identical to the stock HK parts already installed in older Polestar 2s. No need to swap them out.

Rear Door Tweeter (32200034): Identical to those found in the XC90, V90, and other modern SPA Volvos. Easy to find on the salvage market. Same as the A piller ones 4ohm and needs BW Amp

The Subwoofer (32350738): This is technically a new part number for the P2, but it uses the exact same 250mm (10-inch) "Fresh Air" structural design as the Volvo SPA subs.

The physical swap is relatively straightforward, but the brain of the system is where the real work lies:
The Amp: The hardware itself is shared with the V60/XC60 B&W system.
The Software Catch: It requires totally different AUD (Audio Module) firmware/software to map the channels, DSP, and EQ curves specifically to the Polestar 2 cabin.

I’m currently digging into how we can flash the correct calibrationonto a salvaged BW amp. If someone has more insights into this feel free to correct me. I have ZERO knowledge about AUD and the BW amps



]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1378 Fri, 10 Jul 2026 21:50:05 +0000 Zurginator]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1378
I've recently been trying to connect to my Polestar 2 to clear some error messages I caused, but I can't get Orbit to connect anymore. Worth pointing out that I have previously connected and installed modules using this exact combination of laptop/ethernet/cable. I have even tried rolling back to a known working version of Orbit, but I keep getting the same error:

"A car is found but it is not responding to connection request"

I've tried deep sleep on the car, pulling the TCAM battery + 12v, adding a firewall exception, completely disabling the Windows firewall, using an old 'known-working' version of Orbit, using the latest version of Orbit...

I'm out of ideas. Suggestions?]]>
I've recently been trying to connect to my Polestar 2 to clear some error messages I caused, but I can't get Orbit to connect anymore. Worth pointing out that I have previously connected and installed modules using this exact combination of laptop/ethernet/cable. I have even tried rolling back to a known working version of Orbit, but I keep getting the same error:

"A car is found but it is not responding to connection request"

I've tried deep sleep on the car, pulling the TCAM battery + 12v, adding a firewall exception, completely disabling the Windows firewall, using an old 'known-working' version of Orbit, using the latest version of Orbit...

I'm out of ideas. Suggestions?]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1375 Fri, 03 Jul 2026 17:15:00 +0000 Decked]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1375 I wanted to ask whether it is possible to apply configuration changes through the wizards without clearing or resetting the DTCs.
I currently have an intermittent “Reduced engine performance” issue that needs to be diagnosed by the dealer.
When I read the codes myself, I found P200900 confirmed and P00BC00 stored.
The car also consumes quite a lot of oil, so I suspect the issue may be related to the EGR valve.
Recently, I disabled the ACC that I had previously enabled through Orbit, but doing so cleared the DTCs. Since then, the reduced engine performance warning has not appeared again.
It would be very useful if I could disable and re-enable features until my dealer appointment, which is in about a month, without losing any diagnostic data. I travel a lot, so I would really like to keep using ACC in the meantime if possible.
Is there any way to apply wizard changes without clearing the stored/confirmed DTCs?]]> I wanted to ask whether it is possible to apply configuration changes through the wizards without clearing or resetting the DTCs.
I currently have an intermittent “Reduced engine performance” issue that needs to be diagnosed by the dealer.
When I read the codes myself, I found P200900 confirmed and P00BC00 stored.
The car also consumes quite a lot of oil, so I suspect the issue may be related to the EGR valve.
Recently, I disabled the ACC that I had previously enabled through Orbit, but doing so cleared the DTCs. Since then, the reduced engine performance warning has not appeared again.
It would be very useful if I could disable and re-enable features until my dealer appointment, which is in about a month, without losing any diagnostic data. I travel a lot, so I would really like to keep using ACC in the meantime if possible.
Is there any way to apply wizard changes without clearing the stored/confirmed DTCs?]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1373 Sun, 21 Jun 2026 22:04:19 +0000 krzysztof.pyzel@o2.pl]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1373
Po napotkaniu następujących błędów:

Co powinienem zmienić (może przesunąć coś ze starych siedzeń)?

Czy model z 2020 roku może mieć inny system SRS foteli?

Co powinienem przenieść ze starej wersji lub zmienić w Orbit?

@Power6, pomóż proszę.




]]>
Po napotkaniu następujących błędów:

Co powinienem zmienić (może przesunąć coś ze starych siedzeń)?

Czy model z 2020 roku może mieć inny system SRS foteli?

Co powinienem przenieść ze starej wersji lub zmienić w Orbit?

@Power6, pomóż proszę.




]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1372 Sun, 21 Jun 2026 21:41:42 +0000 davelillo]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1372 https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1370 Sun, 21 Jun 2026 20:35:40 +0000 y0bailey]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1370
Does it work on the AAOS models in the USA at all? 

Does enabling curve assist automatically enable some speed limit warning beep or something along those lines?

I'm likely going to just disable it because it doesn't seem to do anything in this country with an AAOS vehicle, but any ideas on the random beeps would be appreciated!]]>
Does it work on the AAOS models in the USA at all? 

Does enabling curve assist automatically enable some speed limit warning beep or something along those lines?

I'm likely going to just disable it because it doesn't seem to do anything in this country with an AAOS vehicle, but any ideas on the random beeps would be appreciated!]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1369 Sat, 20 Jun 2026 03:55:37 +0000 Nemo222]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1369
LTE has no connection

WiFi works, Polestar App works. 

I took it into a local Volvo dealership (polestar dealer is very far and very garbage). They diagnosed it as being connected to a USA data network (I'm in Canada). They downloaded a "market change certificate". This has not fixed the issue. 

I went poking at the ECU fuctions/data I could read for the TCAM module and found for Current Network Identiy (9019) it has Mobile country code: 310, Mobile network code: 17 which, if I'm reading this right means it thinks it should have an AT&T connection. 

The current mobile network operator (D084) is showing MCC 302 and MNC 220 which corresponds to Telus as the current operator which is correct and what it should be. 

Network registration status (9016) shows registered roaming. and Home market (4653) shows "CA" which also makes sense. 

So the car is trying to talk to an AT&T tower. Tt allows roaming data connection for app access, but it does not allow that connection forward to the IHU for maps and spotify. The market change certificate either didn't stick, or wasn't appropriate for my car for some reason

Is there any way I can change this myself and re-assign the car to a Canadian network?

I'm pretty sure I'm stuck waiting for Polestar to get their act together because they're useless, and I like my Volvo friends so I don't really want to make them deal with this again. How much control do we have with Orbit and is this at all possible? 

Thanks!

*Interesting Edit*
A few days ago my car suddenly re-established LTE connectivity. I made no changes. I thought that maybe it sorted itself out and changed its mobile operator. I went and checked the same ECU functions to see if they changed and found that they had not and were the same as before.

So my theory that the software blocked IHU access on roaming data networks is not true and i have so many more questions that before!]]>
LTE has no connection

WiFi works, Polestar App works. 

I took it into a local Volvo dealership (polestar dealer is very far and very garbage). They diagnosed it as being connected to a USA data network (I'm in Canada). They downloaded a "market change certificate". This has not fixed the issue. 

I went poking at the ECU fuctions/data I could read for the TCAM module and found for Current Network Identiy (9019) it has Mobile country code: 310, Mobile network code: 17 which, if I'm reading this right means it thinks it should have an AT&T connection. 

The current mobile network operator (D084) is showing MCC 302 and MNC 220 which corresponds to Telus as the current operator which is correct and what it should be. 

Network registration status (9016) shows registered roaming. and Home market (4653) shows "CA" which also makes sense. 

So the car is trying to talk to an AT&T tower. Tt allows roaming data connection for app access, but it does not allow that connection forward to the IHU for maps and spotify. The market change certificate either didn't stick, or wasn't appropriate for my car for some reason

Is there any way I can change this myself and re-assign the car to a Canadian network?

I'm pretty sure I'm stuck waiting for Polestar to get their act together because they're useless, and I like my Volvo friends so I don't really want to make them deal with this again. How much control do we have with Orbit and is this at all possible? 

Thanks!

*Interesting Edit*
A few days ago my car suddenly re-established LTE connectivity. I made no changes. I thought that maybe it sorted itself out and changed its mobile operator. I went and checked the same ECU functions to see if they changed and found that they had not and were the same as before.

So my theory that the software blocked IHU access on roaming data networks is not true and i have so many more questions that before!]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1368 Sat, 20 Jun 2026 01:34:08 +0000 LiveTrash]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1368
I updated my 2022 C40 to 5.1.17 today while at work. Probably not a good idea, I know, but I haven't had any issues with OTA updates since I got this car so I figured no big deal.

Well, turns out this time it was a big deal. It showed on the head unit the update was successful but upon putting the car in to drive and pulling away, a slew of errors popped up ranging from everything to Regenerative Braking failure to Lane Keep Assist failure, Adaptive Cruise failure, etc. 

A persistent message remained on screen telling me to stop safely as there was a brake failure, but half a dozen hard brake tests in the yard at work confirmed that the friction brakes worked just fine and that it certainly just meant the regenerative braking had failed. I managed to drive home safely with friction brakes working just fine, albeit a bit noisy. 

I arrived home and immediately booted up OrBit to try and fix the issue. Using the Clear DTCs function and Reset All ECUs function did not resolve the issue. However, under the Configurations tab I used the Reset to OEM function and that did indeed clear everything back up. 

It shall be noted however that the car did seem to be back to OEM configurations after the OTA Update, but perhaps some things remained that caused the ECU errors to be present? 

Regardless, I've included all these details here mainly so people prowling the Internet having the same or similar issue may come across this and find that OrBit can help save them a trip to the dealer just like it did for me. 

Thanks OrBit team. 
Lots of love! ❤️]]>
I updated my 2022 C40 to 5.1.17 today while at work. Probably not a good idea, I know, but I haven't had any issues with OTA updates since I got this car so I figured no big deal.

Well, turns out this time it was a big deal. It showed on the head unit the update was successful but upon putting the car in to drive and pulling away, a slew of errors popped up ranging from everything to Regenerative Braking failure to Lane Keep Assist failure, Adaptive Cruise failure, etc. 

A persistent message remained on screen telling me to stop safely as there was a brake failure, but half a dozen hard brake tests in the yard at work confirmed that the friction brakes worked just fine and that it certainly just meant the regenerative braking had failed. I managed to drive home safely with friction brakes working just fine, albeit a bit noisy. 

I arrived home and immediately booted up OrBit to try and fix the issue. Using the Clear DTCs function and Reset All ECUs function did not resolve the issue. However, under the Configurations tab I used the Reset to OEM function and that did indeed clear everything back up. 

It shall be noted however that the car did seem to be back to OEM configurations after the OTA Update, but perhaps some things remained that caused the ECU errors to be present? 

Regardless, I've included all these details here mainly so people prowling the Internet having the same or similar issue may come across this and find that OrBit can help save them a trip to the dealer just like it did for me. 

Thanks OrBit team. 
Lots of love! ❤️]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1367 Thu, 18 Jun 2026 01:07:17 +0000 MinatoXC60]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1367

New member here — i have a 2018 XC60 D4 (no AdBlue), AWD, Momentum Comfort, and just bought OrBit to dig into a few features my car doesn't have from the factory:

• Adaptive Cruise Control
  
• Pilot Assist
  
• Traffic Sign Recognition (Sign Assist)
  
• CarPlay & Android Auto (Device Mirroring)
  
• Disable Stop/Start
  
• Audible locking feedback
  
• Polestar theme/skin
  
  

From searching the forum and a few videos, here's what I've found so far for the simpler ones:

224. DEVICE MIRRORING With Carplay & Android Auto 
271. STOP START FUNCTION MEMORY Button with memory, Standard symbol 
096. AUDIBLE LOCKING FEEDBACK On 
168. SCREEN THEMES/SKINS Polestar

Still need confirmed working values for ACC, Pilot Assist, and Sign Assist on a D4 of this model year — if anyone's done this on a similar car, I'd really appreciate the exact settings.

Quick question for the more experienced folks: is it better to do all these changes in one session, or one at a time? Mainly wondering about whether back-to-back writes are hard on the battery . Any general tips for a first-timer would be great too.

Thanks in advance!

]]>

New member here — i have a 2018 XC60 D4 (no AdBlue), AWD, Momentum Comfort, and just bought OrBit to dig into a few features my car doesn't have from the factory:

• Adaptive Cruise Control
  
• Pilot Assist
  
• Traffic Sign Recognition (Sign Assist)
  
• CarPlay & Android Auto (Device Mirroring)
  
• Disable Stop/Start
  
• Audible locking feedback
  
• Polestar theme/skin
  
  

From searching the forum and a few videos, here's what I've found so far for the simpler ones:

224. DEVICE MIRRORING With Carplay & Android Auto 
271. STOP START FUNCTION MEMORY Button with memory, Standard symbol 
096. AUDIBLE LOCKING FEEDBACK On 
168. SCREEN THEMES/SKINS Polestar

Still need confirmed working values for ACC, Pilot Assist, and Sign Assist on a D4 of this model year — if anyone's done this on a similar car, I'd really appreciate the exact settings.

Quick question for the more experienced folks: is it better to do all these changes in one session, or one at a time? Mainly wondering about whether back-to-back writes are hard on the battery . Any general tips for a first-timer would be great too.

Thanks in advance!

]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1366 Thu, 18 Jun 2026 00:30:45 +0000 Javoski]]> https://forums.spaycetech.com/showthread.php?tid=1366 Thanks!! 
]]> Thanks!! 
]]>